Crochet Bath /Spa Pouf Puff

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CROCHET BATH / SPA POUF PUFF

Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2016

These crochet puffs are a generous size of 12 inches in circumference. The puffs suds up liberally with your body washes and bar soaps. And best of all – THESE PUFFS ARE WASHABLE!!! No more puffs that turn into shower science experiments!!!! Easy to create and great cotton stash busters!!!

MATERIALS NEEDED

1 ball (approx 2.5 oz) 4ply ww Cotton Yarn

Size “K” (6.5 mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Safety pin or stitch marker

 STITCHES USED

Magic Circle – this is a method that creates a virtually “no hole” center. If you do not wish to do the magic circle, begin your work with by chaining 4 and joining to beginning chain with a slip stitch.

Single Crochet – Sc                                     

Double Crochet – Dc

Slip Stitch – Sl st

Chain – Ch

PATTERN

Work a Magic Circle or Ch 4 and Join to beginning ch with a sl st.

Ch 30 and join to the magic or ch 4 circle. (this create the hanging loop)

***Mark the beginng stitch of each round with a stitch marker***

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 25 Sc in the beginning circle. 

             Join to beginning sc with a sl st. Tighten circle

Rnd 2, Ch 3 (acts as first Dc)  Work 4 more dc in the same stitch.

            Work 5 dc in each stitch around. 

            Join to beginning ch 3 with a sl st.

Rnd 3,  Ch 3, Repeat Rnd 2.  Join to beginning ch 3 with a sl st.

Cut and secure yarn and weave in ends.

 witchtiny 128x160

 

 KarenGlasgowFollettDesigns 2016

 

 

                                  

Crochet Simple Spa Cloth Pattern

simplespacloth

 

Materials

4ply ww cotton 1 ball / skein

Size “I” (5.5mm) crochet hook

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

 

Stitches / Terms Used

Chain – Ch

Single Crochet – Sc

Ch – 1 sp, – Chain 1 space

Slip stitch – Sl st

Pattern

Ch 32

Row 1,  Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (31) Turn

Row 2,  Ch 1, Work a sc in each of the first 2 sc,  ch 1, skip next sc, *Work

                a sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip next sc* Repeat from * to * across

                to last 2 sc.  Work a sc in each of the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 3,  Ch 1,  Work a sc in each of the first 2 sc, Work a sc in the first ch – 1 sp.

              *Ch 1, skip next sc, Work a sc in the next ch – 1, sp* Repeat from * to *

               across to last 2 sc.  Work a sc in each of the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 4,  Ch 1, Work a sc in the first 2 sc, Ch 1, skip the next sc, *Work a sc in

               the next ch – 1 sp, Ch 1, skip next sc* Repeat from * to * across to

               last 2 sc.  Work a sc in each of the last 2 sc. Turn

Rows 5 through 30,  Repeat Rows 3 and 4.

Row 31, Ch 1, Work a sc in each sc across. 

Border

Without turning, Ch 1, Work 2 sc in the last sc of row 31,

Evenly space 29 sc along the side of the cloth to the corner,

Work 3 sc in the next stitch (corner made)

Work a sc in each of the foundation chains (29) to the next corner

Work 3 sc in the next stitch (corner made)

Evenly space 29 sc along the side of the cloth to the top corner

Work 3 sc in the next stitch (corner made)

Work a sc in each of the sc across (29) to last sc.  Work a sc in the same stitch as beginning sc of the border.

Slip Stitch in the beginning sc of the border,  Cut & Secure yarn, weave in ends.

 witchtiny 128x160 Karen Glasgow Follett Designs Cpr 2007 Recopied 2016

Crochet Beaded I – Cord Garland

icordsupplies

Crochet Beaded I – Cord Chain Garland

For many of us, the thought of chain garland conjures up memories of the elementary school crafting “right of passage” comprised of endless strips of construction paper and globs of thick school glue.   Now, we can “adult” our childhood crafting classic into a versatile and durable decoration that doesn’t leave us with sticky glued fingers.

This “pat – torial “(combined pattern and tutorial) will take you through the creation of and the beading of crochet I – cord to create any size and style chain of your choosing. 

SUPPLIES

4 Ply worsted weight yarn in any combination of your choosing.

2 same size crochet hooks (5mm or “H” hook was used to create the cording pictured)  **Note that you will want 2 straight shank (thumb rest is okay) hooks as you will be using them much like knitters use dpns (double pointed needles) when they create I – Cord.**

Beads of your choosing (6 and 8mm were used in the cording pictured)

Small piece of wire (thin or 24 gauge) or dental floss, or threaded needle to place the beads on the yarn.  **Note that this is a bead as you go project**

Other supplies include scissors, ruler or tape measure and large eye tapestry needle to whip stitch ends together.

STITCHES USED

Ch – chain

Whip stitch

Slip Stitch

Working yarn is the yarn attached to the ball / skein

 Pattern

Some I – Cords will use an odd number of stitches to encourage the roll that occurs with the stitching. In this pattern, we will be working with 5 stitches.  DO NOT turn the work.

Ch 5,

Step 1, Draw up a loop in each chain until you have 5 loops on your hook

Icordmoveloopsdown

Step 2, Now slide these 5 loops over the thumb rest and to the “non – hook” side of the hook

Icordlooptranscomplete

Step 3, Insert your 2nd hook into the 1st loop on the 1st hook, *Transfer the loop to the 2nd hook and work a chain stitch* Repeat from * to * until all 5 loops are transferred to the 2nd hook

Steps 2 and 3 equal a row of I-Cord. Repeat these steps until you have approximately 7 inches of I – Cord (there are 27 rows for the example) 

 

The rows will begin to curve to create the cord as you work.  You do not have to use the 2nd hook as some people will place the “live loops” on a cable needle, waste yarn or just hold them in the non hook hand and work the chains.  All processes lead to the same results.

When you get to the desired length, bind off by inserting hook into first stitch, y.o with working yarn and slip stitch through the first stitch, Insert hook into the 2nd stitch and slip stitch through the previous stitch. Repeat across through last stitch, Leaving a long tail for sewing, cut and secure yarn.

Fold in half and whip stitch ends together. 

Create 2nd chain. Interlace chain through the previous chain and whip stitch ends together. Repeat until the garland is a desired length. 

 

ADDING BEADS

This is written as a “bead as you go” project. Beading as you go can be a bit fiddly, but the results and the variety (as you can add beads that are much smaller than your yarn) are well worth (in my opinion) the extra fiddle.

 You can pre – string and stitch the beads with each chain – BUT – this method places the bead on one leg of the chain and will encourage the bead to drop to the side of the fabric that is facing away from you. This is the side of the crochet fabric that will naturally turn under as you work the I-Cord, so you will be inadvertently beading the inside of your cord. Yes, you can reposition the beads which can be just as fiddly as “bead as you go”. (and the beads may not stay repositioned.)

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 of the   I – Cord.  Work step 3 until you get to your designated stitch for beading.

Place your wire (dental floss, thread and needle) through the loop of your designated stitch

Icordbeadloop1

                          

Add a bead to your wire and slide the bead on to the stitch. (this encases both legs of the stitch, so you don’t have to be concerned with front side, back side, etc)

Icordbeadloop2

Work your chain stitch

icordbeadloop3

 

 

Work the remaining I – Cord as previously designated. 

icordbeadloop4

 

Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2016

Here is an additional note: The last I – Cord pattern that I published was the  I – Cord Curtain tie backs.  I had one person “comment” that why would you crochet something that you could knit? (this person wasn’t so nice with the comment)  And yes, you can knit I – Cord and make the same garland.  I wrote the pattern with 3 things in mind;

  • Sometimes crocheters just gotta crochet
  • Sometimes knitters just gotta knit
  • And Sometimes Snarks just gotta get snarky.

Enjoy creating your garland however you choose to do it!

Creatively Yours,

Karen   Icordchain1

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Dollhouse Miniature Cat in the Moon Rug in Punchneedle Embroidery

punchneedlecatrugfront

I typically begin each year with a page or two of resolutions. While most of those New Year’s plans eventually fall

into the “meh” pile; there is one resolution that I have adhered to for the past 16ish years (since I turned 40)  That resolution is to learn at least one new skill every year. 

Six years ago the new skill that I learned was punchneedle embroidery.  A local quilt shop offered a class on this technique.  Since I have always loved miniatures, country primitive, and needlework … this seemed to be a class geared just for me.  I purchased the punchneedle (get a quality one with multiple settings of depth and a set of different sized needles) the weavers cloth (a tightly woven fabric that works every well with punchneedle), embroidery floss and a footed embroidery hoop (it acts to keep your work off of any surface since you will be “punching the needle” through the fabric) and attended the class.   The class was superb. The only thing that I did that varied from the class was that I drew out my own design. (I didn’t want to spend the evening punch needling the bland square house with triangle roof that was the learning design) My design is what I used to create the rug featured here.

Fast forward six years later:  During a recent episode of morphing that converted my home office / craft / design room into my grand daughter’s bedroom, I unearthed my punchneedle supplies and half finished cat in the moon design. 

I spent the next couple of hours looking through my long forgotten purchases. I then spent the next day binge watching any online video that I could find on punchneedle techniques (thank you You – Tube!) Then I spent the next day finishing the project that I started six years ago.

I gathered my supplies and included more floss, my scissors and a new Morgan hoop that I love

punchneedlecatsupplies

And I started punching away.  The cat had been completed during the class. The instructor had us use 3 strands of floss which worked perfectly with a more detailed design field.  The loop length (aka needle depth) that seems quite popular is a “2.” Since I am working in 1:12 miniature scale, I kept my depth at a “1” (the punchneedle tool will show you the depths) This created a profile that when backed was still less than 1/8 inch. 

After completing the cat and the branch, I outlined and then filled in the yellow of the moon. For the background I used all 6 strands of embroidery floss. I took about 4 skeins of floss for this project.  While matching dye lots didn’t matter with this piece, I can see where it would definitely matter with other pieces.

After the piece was punched, I pressed (as per you – tube video instruction ) both the front and the back with a steam on iron.  (note that the you – tube instructor was fearless with this … I used a pressing cloth cuz I’m a wuzzy)

Apply an anti fray product to the finished edge of the embroidery. Cut an approximate 1/2 to 1 inch seam allowance. Fold the seam to the back of the piece and baste in place with sewing thread.

punchneedlecatbaste

Now you can back your piece. (if you are going to be using this as an applique, of course you don’t need to back it now) I used a spray adhesive. You can brush on a thinned glue mixture and apply your backing fabric. (I used felt) 

To cover the sides of the weaver’s cloth that will be peaking through you can use a paint stick or a sharpie. I used a strand of black yarn that I couched in place as I stitched the back to the front.

punchneedlecatrugback

I included a chart of the cat that will follow this paragraph.  Feel free to use this for your designing pleasure. Keep in mind that you will be working on the back of your embroidered piece, so you may want to reverse the image depending on how you want the cat to face.  

punchneedlecatrugchart

I made the chart of this cat to complete a cross stitch project. It is not a stitch to stitch chart for punchneedle. You will punch your stitches at approximate stitch width intervals (or as long as the cloth is covered on the front and there is no fabric distortion for split loops)

Please feel free to message me if you have any questions about this piece.  Punchneedle embroidery is a beautiful and fast to create form of needlework. This skill can be translated to miniature pieces worked in floss to larger scale worked in wool to rugs and wall pieces worked in fabric strips.  As with most forms of the needle craft; the only creative limits are only the limits of our imagination. Enjoy!

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Doll Dress Crochet Pattern for 2 inch Doll (Liddle Kiddle Locket & Kologne Doll Modeling)

Crochet Dress for 2 inch Doll

(Liddle Kiddle locket & cologne dolls modeling)

liddlekiddledress1 liddlekiddledresssupplies

Materials Needed

Size 20 Crochet Thread (DMC Cebelia used)

Size 11 (0.8mm) steel crochet hook

Round beads (size 8 to 11 to suit your desired look) approximately 80 beads

“Big Eye” beading needle (this is used for pre – stringing the beads. You can stiffen the end of your thread with glue and string your beads. The needle makes the process a bit easier.)

Large eye needle (to weave in ends)

Scissors

Stitch marker (ie safety pin )

Stitches Used

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – Half Double crochet

Dc – Double Crochet

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rsc – Reverse single crochet

Bead stitching. In this piece all beads are worked with the last step of each stitch. Complete the designated stitch to the last step. Move the pre – strung bead to sit adjacent to the stitch, complete stitch, capturing the bead in the last step.

Pattern

Pre – string at least 80 beads on your thread.

Bodice

Beginning at the waistline, chain 15. Taking care not to twist, join to beg ch with a sl st.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 Sc in the same stitch as joining. Work 1 sc in each of the next 4 chs.

Work 1 dc in each of the next 5 chs. Work 1 sc in each of the remaining 5 chs.

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work a sl st in the same stitch as joining. Work 2 sl st in each of the next 4 stitches,

Work 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 5 stitches.

Join to beg sl st with a sl st. (15) Cut and secure thread.

*** you can mark the “8th” stitch as the center stitch to aid in strap / sleeve placement ***

 

Skirt

Work with the wrong side facing you.

Join thread in the unused loops of the Bodice foundation 1st chain.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 sc and 1 sc with bead in the unused loops of each chain around

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work 1 hdc with bead in same stitch as joining. Work 1 hdc with bead in

each stitch around. Join to beg hdc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 3, Ch 2, Work 2 dc with beads in same stitch as joining. Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitches. *Work 2 dc with beads in next stitch, Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitchs.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beg dc with a sl st. (40)

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a reverse sc in each stitch around. (40)

Cut and secure thread.

Sleeves

Sleeve 1

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice.

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the right of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the right of the beg sc with a sl st.   Cut and secure thread

Sleeve 2

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the left of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the left of the beg sc with a sl st. Cut and secure thread.

Weave in all thread ends to underside of dress

Variations

There are several ways that you can alter the pattern to create different looks for your doll’s dresses. Here are a few variations;

  • Use different colors for the bodice and the skirt
  • Stitch the skirt in the front loops only with plain (no beads added) stitching. Work beaded stitches in the unused loops of the skirt to create a beaded ruffle or tiered apron. (you can incorporate a different color for this if desired)
  • Work sl st, ch with bead, sl st in each stitch of the last round to create a beaded picot

hem.

Cpr Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2009.

 

 

 

Primitive Hexie Table Rug (Crochet and Embroidery Hexagon Table Rug)

purplehexiesmI am a multi crafter.  There are so many crafts that play wonderfully together in a single project.  This is one of those multi craft project.  This 12 inch diameter wool felt table rug incorporates embroidery and crochet to create this beautiful, textural design.

To create this design you will want to gather;

Wool Felt – this project was created from a wool / rayon blend.  I do prefer to use either a predominantly wool or wool / rayon blend. I’m not a huge fan of acrylic for this project, but it can be used. 

Worsted Weight (4) yarn in 2 colors.  I used Paton’s Classic wool in a single color and in a self striping color.

Size “G” (4.25) crochet hook

Large eye (tapestry or crewel), sharp point needle for sewing hexies to felt and to embroider blanket stitch edging.

Crewel wool (tapestry wool) for blanket stitch.  Some people may want to use their worsted yarn to blanket stitch the edging of the mat.  Be sure and text your yarn before you make your decision.  Some worsted yarns will abrade quickly and pull apart if you attempt to use as decorative stitching.

Tracing pen or pencil

Scissors

Spray adhesive

Shaping / blocking materials as desired.

Plate or tray, ect to make a circular rug base.

Instructions

Trace round object (I used a large plate) to felt and cut out.  (I only cut one base out.  Sewing may alter the size a bit. After I finish sewing the hexies in place, I use the finished rug top to serve as a template to cut the 2nd rug base)

Crochet Hexies (I used a pattern that I learned back in the 1970’s. It is a traditional hexed granny pattern that has been around “FOR – EVER.” 

Hexie Pattern (make 1 central and 6 surrounding)

Ch 4 (or you can do a magic circle) Join to form a ring,

Rnd 1, Ch 3 (counts as a dc now and through out) Work 11 more dc in to the ring. Join to top of beg ch 3 with a

Slip stitch (12)

Rnd 2,  Ch 3, Work 1 dc in the same stitch,  ch 1,  *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, ch 1*  Repeat from * to * around.

Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.  (24 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces)

Rnd 3,  Slip Stitch over to first ch 1 space, Work a Ch 3, dc, ch 3 and 2 dc in that same ch 1 space, Work 2 dc in the next

Ch 1 space.  *Work 2dc, ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch 1 space. Work 2 dc in the next ch 1 space* repeat from * to *

around.  Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a sc in the same stitch as joining.  (Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet and Work 3 sc in each

Ch 3 space around) Join to beginning sc with a slip stitch.  Cut and secure yarn.

Shape and block as desired. 

Fold rug base in quarters to find center. Mark center.  Position central hexie in place. (use spray adhesive if desired to hold hexies in place while sewing) Whip stitch in place.  Position each remaining hexies around central hexie.  Whip stitch in place.

Place finished rug base top to felt designated for rug base bottom. (use spray adhesive if desired) Cut to size.

With tapestry wool, blanket stitch around. 

If you feel that you need to press the rug, place it face down on a padded surface, cover with a pressing cloth.

The washability will depend on the fiber content of both the felt and the yarn.

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015

 

 

 

Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet

Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet

minichair1

 

Crochet a chair that would be a welcome addition to even the most discerning doll’s house. The finished sizes of these chairs are; 2 ½ inches from base to top of chair, 1 inch from base to seat. 1 ¼ inches in seat diameter. So perfect for small dolls that delight today’s children and for those vintage small dolls that delight the adult collector!

minichair2

 

Materials Needed

4ply WW yarn                
Size “F” (3.75 mm)

Tapestry needle

Size 7 mesh plastic Canvas

Plastic canvas circles

Scissors

Fiber fill or cotton ball

Tape measure optional

Stitches Used

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Half Double Crochet (hdc)

Chain (ch)

Whip stitch sewing

The Plastic Canvas Frame

Cut a 1 ¼ inch circle for the seat

Cut a 1 inch circle for the back

Cut a 1 inch wide strip for the side. (you can cut the length down when you get ready to join the two ends)

Align the side of the chair side with the side of the chair seat. With yarn and tapestry needle, whip stitch side to seat. Cut length of side as needed to align, and whip stitch chair sides together. Do not cut yarn as yet.

minichair3

Place desired amount of fiber fill in chair base. Using yarn and needle, secure fiber fill with a few stitches taken from side to side. Cut and secure yarn.

minichair4

Pattern

Chair seat and sides

Special notes: The beginning of each round chain is not considered as a stitch throughout the

                          pattern.

                         The number in () is the stitch count at the end of the row / round

Seat

Magic circle (if you are not comfortable with a magic circle, begin with a ch2 and work in the 2nd ch from the hook)

Rnd 1 – Ch 1, Work 10 hdc in the loop, join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (10)

Rnd 2 – Ch 1, Work 2 hdc in same stitch as joining, Work 1 hdc in next stitch. *Work 2 hdc in

next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch* Repeat from * to * around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)

Side

Rnd 3 – Ch 1, Working in back loops (BL) Work 1 hdc in each stitch around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 4 – Repeat Round 3. (15) Leaving a long yarn tail for whip stitching, cut and secure yarn.

Bottom

Repeat Seat instructions (magic circle, round 1 and round 2) Cut and secure yarn

Place chair seat and sides over the chair base (fiber fill is facing up). This will be a snug fit.

Place chair bottom against plastic canvas circle of chair base.

Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle and whip stitch chair sides to chair bottom. Cut and secure yarn, bury ends in the chair base / fiber fill.

Back

(make 2)

Magic circle

Ch 1, Work 15 dc in the loop. Join to beginning dc with a sl st. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Sandwich the 1 inch plastic canvas circle between the front and back pieces of the chair back. With long tail, whip stitch (or sc stitch) chair back pieces together. Align chair back with unworked loops of round 3 of chair seat / side. Whip stitch chair back to chair base through at least 3 stitches.

Arms

(make 4)

Ch 1, Work 7 sc in the loop. Join with a sl st to beginning sc. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Align 2 arm sides together. Whip stitch (or sc stitch) sides together. Repeat with other 2 chair arm sides. Place chair arm abutting both the unworked loops of round 3 and the side back. With long tail of yarn, whip stitch chair arms to chair base and chair back. Repeat with other arm.

Skirt (optional)

Join yarn to the unused loops of round 4,

Ch 2, (does not count as a stitch) Work 1 dc in same stitch as joining, ch 1, *Work 1 dc in next

loop, ch 1* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beginning dc with a sl st.

Cut and secure yarn. Weave in ends.

Cpr 2015 Karen Glasgow Follett Designs