Crochet Beaded I – Cord Garland


Crochet Beaded I – Cord Chain Garland

For many of us, the thought of chain garland conjures up memories of the elementary school crafting “right of passage” comprised of endless strips of construction paper and globs of thick school glue.   Now, we can “adult” our childhood crafting classic into a versatile and durable decoration that doesn’t leave us with sticky glued fingers.

This “pat – torial “(combined pattern and tutorial) will take you through the creation of and the beading of crochet I – cord to create any size and style chain of your choosing. 


4 Ply worsted weight yarn in any combination of your choosing.

2 same size crochet hooks (5mm or “H” hook was used to create the cording pictured)  **Note that you will want 2 straight shank (thumb rest is okay) hooks as you will be using them much like knitters use dpns (double pointed needles) when they create I – Cord.**

Beads of your choosing (6 and 8mm were used in the cording pictured)

Small piece of wire (thin or 24 gauge) or dental floss, or threaded needle to place the beads on the yarn.  **Note that this is a bead as you go project**

Other supplies include scissors, ruler or tape measure and large eye tapestry needle to whip stitch ends together.


Ch – chain

Whip stitch

Slip Stitch

Working yarn is the yarn attached to the ball / skein


Some I – Cords will use an odd number of stitches to encourage the roll that occurs with the stitching. In this pattern, we will be working with 5 stitches.  DO NOT turn the work.

Ch 5,

Step 1, Draw up a loop in each chain until you have 5 loops on your hook


Step 2, Now slide these 5 loops over the thumb rest and to the “non – hook” side of the hook


Step 3, Insert your 2nd hook into the 1st loop on the 1st hook, *Transfer the loop to the 2nd hook and work a chain stitch* Repeat from * to * until all 5 loops are transferred to the 2nd hook

Steps 2 and 3 equal a row of I-Cord. Repeat these steps until you have approximately 7 inches of I – Cord (there are 27 rows for the example) 


The rows will begin to curve to create the cord as you work.  You do not have to use the 2nd hook as some people will place the “live loops” on a cable needle, waste yarn or just hold them in the non hook hand and work the chains.  All processes lead to the same results.

When you get to the desired length, bind off by inserting hook into first stitch, y.o with working yarn and slip stitch through the first stitch, Insert hook into the 2nd stitch and slip stitch through the previous stitch. Repeat across through last stitch, Leaving a long tail for sewing, cut and secure yarn.

Fold in half and whip stitch ends together. 

Create 2nd chain. Interlace chain through the previous chain and whip stitch ends together. Repeat until the garland is a desired length. 



This is written as a “bead as you go” project. Beading as you go can be a bit fiddly, but the results and the variety (as you can add beads that are much smaller than your yarn) are well worth (in my opinion) the extra fiddle.

 You can pre – string and stitch the beads with each chain – BUT – this method places the bead on one leg of the chain and will encourage the bead to drop to the side of the fabric that is facing away from you. This is the side of the crochet fabric that will naturally turn under as you work the I-Cord, so you will be inadvertently beading the inside of your cord. Yes, you can reposition the beads which can be just as fiddly as “bead as you go”. (and the beads may not stay repositioned.)

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 of the   I – Cord.  Work step 3 until you get to your designated stitch for beading.

Place your wire (dental floss, thread and needle) through the loop of your designated stitch



Add a bead to your wire and slide the bead on to the stitch. (this encases both legs of the stitch, so you don’t have to be concerned with front side, back side, etc)


Work your chain stitch




Work the remaining I – Cord as previously designated. 



Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2016

Here is an additional note: The last I – Cord pattern that I published was the  I – Cord Curtain tie backs.  I had one person “comment” that why would you crochet something that you could knit? (this person wasn’t so nice with the comment)  And yes, you can knit I – Cord and make the same garland.  I wrote the pattern with 3 things in mind;

  • Sometimes crocheters just gotta crochet
  • Sometimes knitters just gotta knit
  • And Sometimes Snarks just gotta get snarky.

Enjoy creating your garland however you choose to do it!

Creatively Yours,

Karen   Icordchain1

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Dollhouse Miniature Cat in the Moon Rug in Punchneedle Embroidery


I typically begin each year with a page or two of resolutions. While most of those New Year’s plans eventually fall

into the “meh” pile; there is one resolution that I have adhered to for the past 16ish years (since I turned 40)  That resolution is to learn at least one new skill every year. 

Six years ago the new skill that I learned was punchneedle embroidery.  A local quilt shop offered a class on this technique.  Since I have always loved miniatures, country primitive, and needlework … this seemed to be a class geared just for me.  I purchased the punchneedle (get a quality one with multiple settings of depth and a set of different sized needles) the weavers cloth (a tightly woven fabric that works every well with punchneedle), embroidery floss and a footed embroidery hoop (it acts to keep your work off of any surface since you will be “punching the needle” through the fabric) and attended the class.   The class was superb. The only thing that I did that varied from the class was that I drew out my own design. (I didn’t want to spend the evening punch needling the bland square house with triangle roof that was the learning design) My design is what I used to create the rug featured here.

Fast forward six years later:  During a recent episode of morphing that converted my home office / craft / design room into my grand daughter’s bedroom, I unearthed my punchneedle supplies and half finished cat in the moon design. 

I spent the next couple of hours looking through my long forgotten purchases. I then spent the next day binge watching any online video that I could find on punchneedle techniques (thank you You – Tube!) Then I spent the next day finishing the project that I started six years ago.

I gathered my supplies and included more floss, my scissors and a new Morgan hoop that I love


And I started punching away.  The cat had been completed during the class. The instructor had us use 3 strands of floss which worked perfectly with a more detailed design field.  The loop length (aka needle depth) that seems quite popular is a “2.” Since I am working in 1:12 miniature scale, I kept my depth at a “1” (the punchneedle tool will show you the depths) This created a profile that when backed was still less than 1/8 inch. 

After completing the cat and the branch, I outlined and then filled in the yellow of the moon. For the background I used all 6 strands of embroidery floss. I took about 4 skeins of floss for this project.  While matching dye lots didn’t matter with this piece, I can see where it would definitely matter with other pieces.

After the piece was punched, I pressed (as per you – tube video instruction ) both the front and the back with a steam on iron.  (note that the you – tube instructor was fearless with this … I used a pressing cloth cuz I’m a wuzzy)

Apply an anti fray product to the finished edge of the embroidery. Cut an approximate 1/2 to 1 inch seam allowance. Fold the seam to the back of the piece and baste in place with sewing thread.


Now you can back your piece. (if you are going to be using this as an applique, of course you don’t need to back it now) I used a spray adhesive. You can brush on a thinned glue mixture and apply your backing fabric. (I used felt) 

To cover the sides of the weaver’s cloth that will be peaking through you can use a paint stick or a sharpie. I used a strand of black yarn that I couched in place as I stitched the back to the front.


I included a chart of the cat that will follow this paragraph.  Feel free to use this for your designing pleasure. Keep in mind that you will be working on the back of your embroidered piece, so you may want to reverse the image depending on how you want the cat to face.  


I made the chart of this cat to complete a cross stitch project. It is not a stitch to stitch chart for punchneedle. You will punch your stitches at approximate stitch width intervals (or as long as the cloth is covered on the front and there is no fabric distortion for split loops)

Please feel free to message me if you have any questions about this piece.  Punchneedle embroidery is a beautiful and fast to create form of needlework. This skill can be translated to miniature pieces worked in floss to larger scale worked in wool to rugs and wall pieces worked in fabric strips.  As with most forms of the needle craft; the only creative limits are only the limits of our imagination. Enjoy!

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Doll Dress Crochet Pattern for 2 inch Doll (Liddle Kiddle Locket & Kologne Doll Modeling)

Crochet Dress for 2 inch Doll

(Liddle Kiddle locket & cologne dolls modeling)

liddlekiddledress1 liddlekiddledresssupplies

Materials Needed

Size 20 Crochet Thread (DMC Cebelia used)

Size 11 (0.8mm) steel crochet hook

Round beads (size 8 to 11 to suit your desired look) approximately 80 beads

“Big Eye” beading needle (this is used for pre – stringing the beads. You can stiffen the end of your thread with glue and string your beads. The needle makes the process a bit easier.)

Large eye needle (to weave in ends)


Stitch marker (ie safety pin )

Stitches Used

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – Half Double crochet

Dc – Double Crochet

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rsc – Reverse single crochet

Bead stitching. In this piece all beads are worked with the last step of each stitch. Complete the designated stitch to the last step. Move the pre – strung bead to sit adjacent to the stitch, complete stitch, capturing the bead in the last step.


Pre – string at least 80 beads on your thread.


Beginning at the waistline, chain 15. Taking care not to twist, join to beg ch with a sl st.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 Sc in the same stitch as joining. Work 1 sc in each of the next 4 chs.

Work 1 dc in each of the next 5 chs. Work 1 sc in each of the remaining 5 chs.

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work a sl st in the same stitch as joining. Work 2 sl st in each of the next 4 stitches,

Work 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 5 stitches.

Join to beg sl st with a sl st. (15) Cut and secure thread.

*** you can mark the “8th” stitch as the center stitch to aid in strap / sleeve placement ***



Work with the wrong side facing you.

Join thread in the unused loops of the Bodice foundation 1st chain.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 sc and 1 sc with bead in the unused loops of each chain around

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work 1 hdc with bead in same stitch as joining. Work 1 hdc with bead in

each stitch around. Join to beg hdc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 3, Ch 2, Work 2 dc with beads in same stitch as joining. Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitches. *Work 2 dc with beads in next stitch, Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitchs.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beg dc with a sl st. (40)

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a reverse sc in each stitch around. (40)

Cut and secure thread.


Sleeve 1

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice.

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the right of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the right of the beg sc with a sl st.   Cut and secure thread

Sleeve 2

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the left of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the left of the beg sc with a sl st. Cut and secure thread.

Weave in all thread ends to underside of dress


There are several ways that you can alter the pattern to create different looks for your doll’s dresses. Here are a few variations;

  • Use different colors for the bodice and the skirt
  • Stitch the skirt in the front loops only with plain (no beads added) stitching. Work beaded stitches in the unused loops of the skirt to create a beaded ruffle or tiered apron. (you can incorporate a different color for this if desired)
  • Work sl st, ch with bead, sl st in each stitch of the last round to create a beaded picot


Cpr Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2009.




Primitive Hexie Table Rug (Crochet and Embroidery Hexagon Table Rug)

purplehexiesmI am a multi crafter.  There are so many crafts that play wonderfully together in a single project.  This is one of those multi craft project.  This 12 inch diameter wool felt table rug incorporates embroidery and crochet to create this beautiful, textural design.

To create this design you will want to gather;

Wool Felt – this project was created from a wool / rayon blend.  I do prefer to use either a predominantly wool or wool / rayon blend. I’m not a huge fan of acrylic for this project, but it can be used. 

Worsted Weight (4) yarn in 2 colors.  I used Paton’s Classic wool in a single color and in a self striping color.

Size “G” (4.25) crochet hook

Large eye (tapestry or crewel), sharp point needle for sewing hexies to felt and to embroider blanket stitch edging.

Crewel wool (tapestry wool) for blanket stitch.  Some people may want to use their worsted yarn to blanket stitch the edging of the mat.  Be sure and text your yarn before you make your decision.  Some worsted yarns will abrade quickly and pull apart if you attempt to use as decorative stitching.

Tracing pen or pencil


Spray adhesive

Shaping / blocking materials as desired.

Plate or tray, ect to make a circular rug base.


Trace round object (I used a large plate) to felt and cut out.  (I only cut one base out.  Sewing may alter the size a bit. After I finish sewing the hexies in place, I use the finished rug top to serve as a template to cut the 2nd rug base)

Crochet Hexies (I used a pattern that I learned back in the 1970’s. It is a traditional hexed granny pattern that has been around “FOR – EVER.” 

Hexie Pattern (make 1 central and 6 surrounding)

Ch 4 (or you can do a magic circle) Join to form a ring,

Rnd 1, Ch 3 (counts as a dc now and through out) Work 11 more dc in to the ring. Join to top of beg ch 3 with a

Slip stitch (12)

Rnd 2,  Ch 3, Work 1 dc in the same stitch,  ch 1,  *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, ch 1*  Repeat from * to * around.

Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.  (24 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces)

Rnd 3,  Slip Stitch over to first ch 1 space, Work a Ch 3, dc, ch 3 and 2 dc in that same ch 1 space, Work 2 dc in the next

Ch 1 space.  *Work 2dc, ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch 1 space. Work 2 dc in the next ch 1 space* repeat from * to *

around.  Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a sc in the same stitch as joining.  (Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet and Work 3 sc in each

Ch 3 space around) Join to beginning sc with a slip stitch.  Cut and secure yarn.

Shape and block as desired. 

Fold rug base in quarters to find center. Mark center.  Position central hexie in place. (use spray adhesive if desired to hold hexies in place while sewing) Whip stitch in place.  Position each remaining hexies around central hexie.  Whip stitch in place.

Place finished rug base top to felt designated for rug base bottom. (use spray adhesive if desired) Cut to size.

With tapestry wool, blanket stitch around. 

If you feel that you need to press the rug, place it face down on a padded surface, cover with a pressing cloth.

The washability will depend on the fiber content of both the felt and the yarn.

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015




Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet

Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet



Crochet a chair that would be a welcome addition to even the most discerning doll’s house. The finished sizes of these chairs are; 2 ½ inches from base to top of chair, 1 inch from base to seat. 1 ¼ inches in seat diameter. So perfect for small dolls that delight today’s children and for those vintage small dolls that delight the adult collector!



Materials Needed

4ply WW yarn                
Size “F” (3.75 mm)

Tapestry needle

Size 7 mesh plastic Canvas

Plastic canvas circles


Fiber fill or cotton ball

Tape measure optional

Stitches Used

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Half Double Crochet (hdc)

Chain (ch)

Whip stitch sewing

The Plastic Canvas Frame

Cut a 1 ¼ inch circle for the seat

Cut a 1 inch circle for the back

Cut a 1 inch wide strip for the side. (you can cut the length down when you get ready to join the two ends)

Align the side of the chair side with the side of the chair seat. With yarn and tapestry needle, whip stitch side to seat. Cut length of side as needed to align, and whip stitch chair sides together. Do not cut yarn as yet.


Place desired amount of fiber fill in chair base. Using yarn and needle, secure fiber fill with a few stitches taken from side to side. Cut and secure yarn.



Chair seat and sides

Special notes: The beginning of each round chain is not considered as a stitch throughout the


                         The number in () is the stitch count at the end of the row / round


Magic circle (if you are not comfortable with a magic circle, begin with a ch2 and work in the 2nd ch from the hook)

Rnd 1 – Ch 1, Work 10 hdc in the loop, join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (10)

Rnd 2 – Ch 1, Work 2 hdc in same stitch as joining, Work 1 hdc in next stitch. *Work 2 hdc in

next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch* Repeat from * to * around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)


Rnd 3 – Ch 1, Working in back loops (BL) Work 1 hdc in each stitch around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 4 – Repeat Round 3. (15) Leaving a long yarn tail for whip stitching, cut and secure yarn.


Repeat Seat instructions (magic circle, round 1 and round 2) Cut and secure yarn

Place chair seat and sides over the chair base (fiber fill is facing up). This will be a snug fit.

Place chair bottom against plastic canvas circle of chair base.

Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle and whip stitch chair sides to chair bottom. Cut and secure yarn, bury ends in the chair base / fiber fill.


(make 2)

Magic circle

Ch 1, Work 15 dc in the loop. Join to beginning dc with a sl st. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Sandwich the 1 inch plastic canvas circle between the front and back pieces of the chair back. With long tail, whip stitch (or sc stitch) chair back pieces together. Align chair back with unworked loops of round 3 of chair seat / side. Whip stitch chair back to chair base through at least 3 stitches.


(make 4)

Ch 1, Work 7 sc in the loop. Join with a sl st to beginning sc. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Align 2 arm sides together. Whip stitch (or sc stitch) sides together. Repeat with other 2 chair arm sides. Place chair arm abutting both the unworked loops of round 3 and the side back. With long tail of yarn, whip stitch chair arms to chair base and chair back. Repeat with other arm.

Skirt (optional)

Join yarn to the unused loops of round 4,

Ch 2, (does not count as a stitch) Work 1 dc in same stitch as joining, ch 1, *Work 1 dc in next

loop, ch 1* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beginning dc with a sl st.

Cut and secure yarn. Weave in ends.

Cpr 2015 Karen Glasgow Follett Designs




Crochet Amigurumi Fish Pattern- Catch Me If You Can!


Several years ago, my sister and I received a fun fishing game for Christmas.  This was during the mid part of the 1960s – prior to much attention being placed on the safety of children and their games.  This particular game had magnetized fish that “swam” along an electrified board.  Each fish had a metal loop for a mouth and each fishing pole had a metal hook at the end of a long wire. Regardless of the significant electrical shocks that we received, we did have a good time playing this game. 

A few weeks ago, I saw a post on a social media site that showed a homemade version of this game. Plush fish were used. Each fish had a magnetic mouth and each pole had a magnet attached to the line to attract and “catch” each fish.  I couldn’t find a pattern associated with this new hand created version. After searching several sites that did provide sewing, crochet and knitting patterns of various fish, and not finding a fish style that suited my aesthetics, I decided to create my own pattern. 

This pattern was created to make this fishing game for my granddaughter. Of course, the usual disclaimers would be in place. This pattern uses magnets, poking devices and small parts, so the finished product is not be suitable for animals, small children and some adults who tend to put things in their mouths.

You will need the following supplies;

  • Yarn in both fish color and fin color, I used a 4ply ww yarn. You could adjust this to make your fish smaller or larger. This is a great stash buster as each fish doesn’t require much yarn. One skein will yield an entire school of fish
  • “E” or 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • stitch marker
  • fiber fill
  • 6mm beads for eyes
  • Sewing thread and needle
  • tapestry or other large eye needle
  • Dowel
  • Plain Shank Button
  • Tape
  • Strong Disk magnets
  • Glue
  • Scissors


Fish Crochet pattern

Special notes;

Unless directed, do not join rounds. You may want to place a stitch marker (safety pin, ect) into the first stitch of each round to keep your place.

Unless directed, each stitch of the fish body is worked in the back loop only (this is the top of the stitch loop that is furthest away from you) You will be later attaching fins to some of the unused loops and the remaining unused loops give a “scale” quality to your fish.

Stitches Used

  • Chain – Ch
  • Single Crochet – sc
  • Slip stitch – Sl st
  • Double Triple Crochet – dtr
  • Triple Crochet – tr
  • Double Crochet – dc
  • Single Crochet Decrease – sc dec
  • Half double crochet – hdc

Create a magic circle or Ch 2,

Round 1,  Work 6 sc in the magic circle (or in the 2nd ch from the hook) 6

Round 2,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, work 1 sc in next sc* Repeat from * to * around (9)

Round 3,  Work 2 sc in each sc around. (18)

Round 4,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around (24)

Round 5,   Work a sc in each sc around (24)

Rounds 6 – 8, Repeat Round 5 (24)

Round 9,  *Work sc in next 2 sc, sc dec through next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around. (18)

Rounds 10 & 11, Work a sc in each sc around (18)

Round 12, *Work sc in next sc, sc dec through next 2 sc*  Repeat from * to * around (12)

Rounds 13 & 14, Work a sc in each sc around (12)

At the end of round 14, cut and secure yarn.  Turn fish body inside out, so the unused loops are showing on the outside of the fish body.

Stuff fish as desired with fiber fill.

Align the 12 stitches of round 14 so that each stitch lays against its opposite stitch. (ie 12 is across from 1, 11 is across from 2, ect) See picture



With yarn color designated for the tail, insert your hook into both aligned stitches, stitch fish body closed with a sc in each stitch couple. (6 sc)

Ch 5, work a dtr and a tr in the 1st sc, Work a dc and a hdc in the next sc, Work a sc in the next 2 sc, Work a hdc and a dc in the next sc, and a tr and a dtr in the last sc, Ch 5, sl st chain to same last sc.  Cut and secure yarn,

Dorsal Fin

With fish facing you and tail fin vertical; locate the unused loops of round 6. “Eye” a straight line between the tail and the fish front.  You will be working the unused loops on either side of that line together in rounds 6, 7 and 8. Working in this manner provides a centered a more secure attachment for the dorsal fin.  See picture


With yarn designated for dorsal fin, *insert hook into first unused loop, yarn over, and draw back through, Insert hook into unused loop of adjacent stitch, yarn over and draw back through loop, Yarn over and draw back trough all loops on hook.* Ch 1, Repeat from * to * in the unused loops of round 7, ch 2, Repeat from * to * round 8. 

Ch 4, Work 2 dc in the same stitch worked in round 8’s unused loops, Work dc in next ch 1 space, Work hdc in the next stitch worked in round 7’s unused loops, Work a sc in the next ch 1 space, Work a sl st in the stitch worked in round 6’s unused loops. If desired, work another sl st around the post of the round 6 sc directly in front of the dorsal fin.  Cut and secure yarn.

Side fins. 

You will work one side with the fish face facing you and the other side with the tail facing you.

Again, locating the unused loops of round 6, count down 6 loops from the dorsal fin. With fin color yarn, insert hook into that unused loop and attach yarn with a sl st.  ch 1, and sc into the same loop, Working toward the dorsal fin, work 2 dc, ch3, 2 dc in the next unused loop, sc, ch1 and sl st in the next unused loop. Cut and secure yarn.  Repeat this sequence on the opposite side of the fish for the other fin.

Optional fish lips

If you are wanting plush fish and no magnet, you can create lips for your fish.

Locate the unused loops of the 1st round, Insert hook into one of the loops and attach yarn with a sl st. *Work ch 1 and sl st in the next loop* Repeat from * to * around.  Ch 1, and join to beginning sl st.  Cut and secure yarn.

With tapestry needle (or other large eye needle) bury all yarn ends into the fiber fill. 

Attach beads to create the fish eyes, bury the thread ends in the fiber fill.


Make sure that you are using the attracting sides of the magnets. Glue one magnet to fish face. Glue the other magnet to the shank button.  Allow both ample drying time.

Fishing Pole

Attach yarn or other “line” to pole and secure with tape.  Thread other end through the shank of the button.

Now you are set for a fun fishing experience!

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015

Guided Imagery Setting our Inner Magnet

Our Inner Magnet
Every experience that we outwardly have is created in place by our internal magnetic force.  This magnetic force is comprised from our intent, our expectations and our emotions. The energetic flow that carries these intentions, expectations and emotions is the chakra system.
As we view any light bulb, the halo of light that is produced by the bulb is readily apparent.  This halo of light is created by the inner components (or filament) of the light bulb.  Now, compare this halo of light to the aura of our physical bodies.
The aura is the corona of energy that surrounds us. This energetic halo is responsible for the magnetic attraction or deflection of the events of our lives.  Our energetic halo is created by our inner filament of the chakra system.  The thoughts, expectations and emotions that reside in our chakra system fuels the magnetic pull of our auras.
Guided Imagery
Become aware of your physical body.  Allow your eyes to close or to gently focus. Focus on your breathing.  With each breath, allow your physical body to relax.

Working from the top of your head to soles of your feet; each breath in welcomes calmness and serenity – each breath out releases the tension and the fear to the healing atmosphere that surrounds you.
As you physical body relaxes, shift your physical awareness from the outside to the mindscape of the inner planes.  With each breath that you take allow the mind to release the physical thoughts and images that drift through.
With each breath, allow yourself to feel the energy as it flows through you and around you – Divine Source energy that is perfectly attuning the inner and the outer balance of your mind, body and spirit.

Each breath that you take in unifies the “as above” of the energetic divine vibration with the “so below” of your physical energetic vibration.   Each breath that you release blends your core of desire, intent and emotion with your energetic divine source.  Each breath that you take allows the boundaries of inner and outer to soften until you are flowing as a unity of Divine Creator and creation.
Allow your energetic senses to become aware of your vortices of energetic flow.  As you focus on each energetic swirl; focus on any messages that reside within the energy.  Allow yourself to affirm the messages that fuel your life. Allow yourself to release any messages that no longer serve you to the Divine energy for healing and re-messaging.
Begin with the soles of the feet. Focus your breathing on your soles. Feel them relax and feel them firmly cradled within the energy of the earth.  You feel the energy vortices of your feet root deep into the earth to receive the nourishment of the earth mother and to “ground” the energetic flow into physical reality.
Move your awareness up to your tail bone area. Become aware of the swirling garnet red energy of the root chakra. This energy is the energy of the physical “I am.” This is our physical energy – our right to thrive – our right to be here on earth. Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow creating your Highest physical progression.
The garnet red blends to the tangerine orange energy between your pubic bone and your navel.  This sacral chakra is the energy of “I connect” with others and “I create”.  This creative energy is also the flow of our desires and pleasures. Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow magnetizing your Highest sense of joy.
The tangerine orange flows to the sunny yellow of the solar plexus chakra. The energetic swirl is located from the navel to just beneath your rib cage.  This chakra is the energy of “I manifest.”  This energy takes ideas and inspiration and turns them into a plan of action.  Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow attracting your Highest manifestation in the physical realm.
The energies of the physical now flow to the spirit as the solar plexus flows to the emerald green of the heart. This energy that is centrally located in the chest is the energy of “I love.” This Divine love is the message of Source to us that lets us know that “what is loved within our hearts is the message of our souls to manifest in our reality.”  Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow serves your Highest Source of Unconditional Love and Desire.
The emerald flows to the pure blue of the throat chakra. This swirling energy is located in the mid throat and speaks our truth – our authentic self.  This energy gives us the solidity of the soul’s messages and it gives us the thinness of the messages of our egos.   Be with your awareness of this “I speak” energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow resonating with your Divine voice of soul intent.
The pure blue blends into the indigo of the third eye chakra of the central brow.  This is the energy of “I see.” This sight moves beyond all boundaries and links the Source direction to the visual journey.  Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow revealing  your Highest path and vision.

The indigo flows to the opalescent energy of the Higher Source.  This energy is felt at the crown of the head.  This is the Divine “I am.”  This energy is the connection to our Highest Source / Spirit Guide that is always of Creator God Source.  The messages of this energy are always affirming and uplifting.  Be with your awareness of this energy. Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any messages, thoughts or perceptions that no longer serve you.  With each breath that you take, affirm that Source energy is assuring that energetic flow serves your Highest communication that supports and re-affirms our sense of Divine Source in Physical Self.
If you feel so directed, continue your affirming flow of Creator Source –
Your awareness shifts to the warmth radiating from above your crown.  You sense a golden sphere of energy above your crown – the energetic sphere of Divine Source.  Source energy affirming your creation of Highest Intent. Source energy that aligns you with your inherent right to be nourished and to thrive. With each breath that you take, you allow the flow of energy to reach toward you.
With each breath, allow this warming golden energy to flow through each chakra.  Sense the golden rays flowing through each energetic vortex. Feel the vibrational attunement of Divine Source.  From Crown to Root, you know that you are the physical creation of Divine Creator.  As Divine energy moves through the root, you release the flow through the soles of your feet into the nourishing earth.  You affirm the energy of “As above – So below”  magnetic creation.
As you feel comfortable, allow your focus to shift from the inner energetic planes to the physical body. Each breath that you take gives your physical body more definition and distinction.  With each breath, you gain clarity to your physical place and position.  You feel the firmness of the physical plane.  Take a deep breath in and as you exhale, release any floaty or extra energy through the soles of your feet and into the earth.  Open your eyes and acclimate back to the physical presence.

Karen Glasgow Follett 12/30/14