Doll Dress Crochet Pattern for 2 inch Doll (Liddle Kiddle Locket & Kologne Doll Modeling)

Crochet Dress for 2 inch Doll

(Liddle Kiddle locket & cologne dolls modeling)

liddlekiddledress1 liddlekiddledresssupplies

Materials Needed

Size 20 Crochet Thread (DMC Cebelia used)

Size 11 (0.8mm) steel crochet hook

Round beads (size 8 to 11 to suit your desired look) approximately 80 beads

“Big Eye” beading needle (this is used for pre – stringing the beads. You can stiffen the end of your thread with glue and string your beads. The needle makes the process a bit easier.)

Large eye needle (to weave in ends)

Scissors

Stitch marker (ie safety pin )

Stitches Used

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – Half Double crochet

Dc – Double Crochet

Sl st – Slip stitch

Rsc – Reverse single crochet

Bead stitching. In this piece all beads are worked with the last step of each stitch. Complete the designated stitch to the last step. Move the pre – strung bead to sit adjacent to the stitch, complete stitch, capturing the bead in the last step.

Pattern

Pre – string at least 80 beads on your thread.

Bodice

Beginning at the waistline, chain 15. Taking care not to twist, join to beg ch with a sl st.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 Sc in the same stitch as joining. Work 1 sc in each of the next 4 chs.

Work 1 dc in each of the next 5 chs. Work 1 sc in each of the remaining 5 chs.

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work a sl st in the same stitch as joining. Work 2 sl st in each of the next 4 stitches,

Work 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 5 stitches.

Join to beg sl st with a sl st. (15) Cut and secure thread.

*** you can mark the “8th” stitch as the center stitch to aid in strap / sleeve placement ***

 

Skirt

Work with the wrong side facing you.

Join thread in the unused loops of the Bodice foundation 1st chain.

Rnd 1, Ch 1, Work 1 sc and 1 sc with bead in the unused loops of each chain around

Join to beg sc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work 1 hdc with bead in same stitch as joining. Work 1 hdc with bead in

each stitch around. Join to beg hdc with a sl st. (30)

Rnd 3, Ch 2, Work 2 dc with beads in same stitch as joining. Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitches. *Work 2 dc with beads in next stitch, Work 1 dc with bead in each of the

next 2 stitchs.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beg dc with a sl st. (40)

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a reverse sc in each stitch around. (40)

Cut and secure thread.

Sleeves

Sleeve 1

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice.

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the right of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the right of the beg sc with a sl st.   Cut and secure thread

Sleeve 2

Join thread to beg sc of top and back of bodice

Ch 3, Join to stitch to the left of the center marked stitch of bodice front

Ch 1, turn, Work 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc in the ch 3 space. Join to stitch to the left of the beg sc with a sl st. Cut and secure thread.

Weave in all thread ends to underside of dress

Variations

There are several ways that you can alter the pattern to create different looks for your doll’s dresses. Here are a few variations;

  • Use different colors for the bodice and the skirt
  • Stitch the skirt in the front loops only with plain (no beads added) stitching. Work beaded stitches in the unused loops of the skirt to create a beaded ruffle or tiered apron. (you can incorporate a different color for this if desired)
  • Work sl st, ch with bead, sl st in each stitch of the last round to create a beaded picot

hem.

Cpr Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2009.

 

 

 

Primitive Hexie Table Rug (Crochet and Embroidery Hexagon Table Rug)

purplehexiesmI am a multi crafter.  There are so many crafts that play wonderfully together in a single project.  This is one of those multi craft project.  This 12 inch diameter wool felt table rug incorporates embroidery and crochet to create this beautiful, textural design.

To create this design you will want to gather;

Wool Felt – this project was created from a wool / rayon blend.  I do prefer to use either a predominantly wool or wool / rayon blend. I’m not a huge fan of acrylic for this project, but it can be used. 

Worsted Weight (4) yarn in 2 colors.  I used Paton’s Classic wool in a single color and in a self striping color.

Size “G” (4.25) crochet hook

Large eye (tapestry or crewel), sharp point needle for sewing hexies to felt and to embroider blanket stitch edging.

Crewel wool (tapestry wool) for blanket stitch.  Some people may want to use their worsted yarn to blanket stitch the edging of the mat.  Be sure and text your yarn before you make your decision.  Some worsted yarns will abrade quickly and pull apart if you attempt to use as decorative stitching.

Tracing pen or pencil

Scissors

Spray adhesive

Shaping / blocking materials as desired.

Plate or tray, ect to make a circular rug base.

Instructions

Trace round object (I used a large plate) to felt and cut out.  (I only cut one base out.  Sewing may alter the size a bit. After I finish sewing the hexies in place, I use the finished rug top to serve as a template to cut the 2nd rug base)

Crochet Hexies (I used a pattern that I learned back in the 1970’s. It is a traditional hexed granny pattern that has been around “FOR – EVER.” 

Hexie Pattern (make 1 central and 6 surrounding)

Ch 4 (or you can do a magic circle) Join to form a ring,

Rnd 1, Ch 3 (counts as a dc now and through out) Work 11 more dc in to the ring. Join to top of beg ch 3 with a

Slip stitch (12)

Rnd 2,  Ch 3, Work 1 dc in the same stitch,  ch 1,  *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, ch 1*  Repeat from * to * around.

Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.  (24 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces)

Rnd 3,  Slip Stitch over to first ch 1 space, Work a Ch 3, dc, ch 3 and 2 dc in that same ch 1 space, Work 2 dc in the next

Ch 1 space.  *Work 2dc, ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch 1 space. Work 2 dc in the next ch 1 space* repeat from * to *

around.  Join to top of beginning ch 3 with a slip stitch.

Rnd 4, Ch 1, Work a sc in the same stitch as joining.  (Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet and Work 3 sc in each

Ch 3 space around) Join to beginning sc with a slip stitch.  Cut and secure yarn.

Shape and block as desired. 

Fold rug base in quarters to find center. Mark center.  Position central hexie in place. (use spray adhesive if desired to hold hexies in place while sewing) Whip stitch in place.  Position each remaining hexies around central hexie.  Whip stitch in place.

Place finished rug base top to felt designated for rug base bottom. (use spray adhesive if desired) Cut to size.

With tapestry wool, blanket stitch around. 

If you feel that you need to press the rug, place it face down on a padded surface, cover with a pressing cloth.

The washability will depend on the fiber content of both the felt and the yarn.

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015

 

 

 

Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet

Miniature Doll Chair in Crochet

minichair1

 

Crochet a chair that would be a welcome addition to even the most discerning doll’s house. The finished sizes of these chairs are; 2 ½ inches from base to top of chair, 1 inch from base to seat. 1 ¼ inches in seat diameter. So perfect for small dolls that delight today’s children and for those vintage small dolls that delight the adult collector!

minichair2

 

Materials Needed

4ply WW yarn                
Size “F” (3.75 mm)

Tapestry needle

Size 7 mesh plastic Canvas

Plastic canvas circles

Scissors

Fiber fill or cotton ball

Tape measure optional

Stitches Used

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Half Double Crochet (hdc)

Chain (ch)

Whip stitch sewing

The Plastic Canvas Frame

Cut a 1 ¼ inch circle for the seat

Cut a 1 inch circle for the back

Cut a 1 inch wide strip for the side. (you can cut the length down when you get ready to join the two ends)

Align the side of the chair side with the side of the chair seat. With yarn and tapestry needle, whip stitch side to seat. Cut length of side as needed to align, and whip stitch chair sides together. Do not cut yarn as yet.

minichair3

Place desired amount of fiber fill in chair base. Using yarn and needle, secure fiber fill with a few stitches taken from side to side. Cut and secure yarn.

minichair4

Pattern

Chair seat and sides

Special notes: The beginning of each round chain is not considered as a stitch throughout the

                          pattern.

                         The number in () is the stitch count at the end of the row / round

Seat

Magic circle (if you are not comfortable with a magic circle, begin with a ch2 and work in the 2nd ch from the hook)

Rnd 1 – Ch 1, Work 10 hdc in the loop, join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (10)

Rnd 2 – Ch 1, Work 2 hdc in same stitch as joining, Work 1 hdc in next stitch. *Work 2 hdc in

next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch* Repeat from * to * around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)

Side

Rnd 3 – Ch 1, Working in back loops (BL) Work 1 hdc in each stitch around.

Join to beginning hdc with a sl st. (15)

Rnd 4 – Repeat Round 3. (15) Leaving a long yarn tail for whip stitching, cut and secure yarn.

Bottom

Repeat Seat instructions (magic circle, round 1 and round 2) Cut and secure yarn

Place chair seat and sides over the chair base (fiber fill is facing up). This will be a snug fit.

Place chair bottom against plastic canvas circle of chair base.

Thread yarn tail through tapestry needle and whip stitch chair sides to chair bottom. Cut and secure yarn, bury ends in the chair base / fiber fill.

Back

(make 2)

Magic circle

Ch 1, Work 15 dc in the loop. Join to beginning dc with a sl st. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Sandwich the 1 inch plastic canvas circle between the front and back pieces of the chair back. With long tail, whip stitch (or sc stitch) chair back pieces together. Align chair back with unworked loops of round 3 of chair seat / side. Whip stitch chair back to chair base through at least 3 stitches.

Arms

(make 4)

Ch 1, Work 7 sc in the loop. Join with a sl st to beginning sc. Leaving a long tail, cut and

secure yarn.

Align 2 arm sides together. Whip stitch (or sc stitch) sides together. Repeat with other 2 chair arm sides. Place chair arm abutting both the unworked loops of round 3 and the side back. With long tail of yarn, whip stitch chair arms to chair base and chair back. Repeat with other arm.

Skirt (optional)

Join yarn to the unused loops of round 4,

Ch 2, (does not count as a stitch) Work 1 dc in same stitch as joining, ch 1, *Work 1 dc in next

loop, ch 1* Repeat from * to * around. Join to beginning dc with a sl st.

Cut and secure yarn. Weave in ends.

Cpr 2015 Karen Glasgow Follett Designs

 

 

                         

Crochet Amigurumi Fish Pattern- Catch Me If You Can!

fish2fish1

Several years ago, my sister and I received a fun fishing game for Christmas.  This was during the mid part of the 1960s – prior to much attention being placed on the safety of children and their games.  This particular game had magnetized fish that “swam” along an electrified board.  Each fish had a metal loop for a mouth and each fishing pole had a metal hook at the end of a long wire. Regardless of the significant electrical shocks that we received, we did have a good time playing this game. 

A few weeks ago, I saw a post on a social media site that showed a homemade version of this game. Plush fish were used. Each fish had a magnetic mouth and each pole had a magnet attached to the line to attract and “catch” each fish.  I couldn’t find a pattern associated with this new hand created version. After searching several sites that did provide sewing, crochet and knitting patterns of various fish, and not finding a fish style that suited my aesthetics, I decided to create my own pattern. 

This pattern was created to make this fishing game for my granddaughter. Of course, the usual disclaimers would be in place. This pattern uses magnets, poking devices and small parts, so the finished product is not be suitable for animals, small children and some adults who tend to put things in their mouths.

You will need the following supplies;

  • Yarn in both fish color and fin color, I used a 4ply ww yarn. You could adjust this to make your fish smaller or larger. This is a great stash buster as each fish doesn’t require much yarn. One skein will yield an entire school of fish
  • “E” or 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • stitch marker
  • fiber fill
  • 6mm beads for eyes
  • Sewing thread and needle
  • tapestry or other large eye needle
  • Dowel
  • Plain Shank Button
  • Tape
  • Strong Disk magnets
  • Glue
  • Scissors

fishsupplies

Fish Crochet pattern

Special notes;

Unless directed, do not join rounds. You may want to place a stitch marker (safety pin, ect) into the first stitch of each round to keep your place.

Unless directed, each stitch of the fish body is worked in the back loop only (this is the top of the stitch loop that is furthest away from you) You will be later attaching fins to some of the unused loops and the remaining unused loops give a “scale” quality to your fish.

Stitches Used

  • Chain – Ch
  • Single Crochet – sc
  • Slip stitch – Sl st
  • Double Triple Crochet – dtr
  • Triple Crochet – tr
  • Double Crochet – dc
  • Single Crochet Decrease – sc dec
  • Half double crochet – hdc

Create a magic circle or Ch 2,

Round 1,  Work 6 sc in the magic circle (or in the 2nd ch from the hook) 6

Round 2,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, work 1 sc in next sc* Repeat from * to * around (9)

Round 3,  Work 2 sc in each sc around. (18)

Round 4,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around (24)

Round 5,   Work a sc in each sc around (24)

Rounds 6 – 8, Repeat Round 5 (24)

Round 9,  *Work sc in next 2 sc, sc dec through next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around. (18)

Rounds 10 & 11, Work a sc in each sc around (18)

Round 12, *Work sc in next sc, sc dec through next 2 sc*  Repeat from * to * around (12)

Rounds 13 & 14, Work a sc in each sc around (12)

At the end of round 14, cut and secure yarn.  Turn fish body inside out, so the unused loops are showing on the outside of the fish body.

Stuff fish as desired with fiber fill.

Align the 12 stitches of round 14 so that each stitch lays against its opposite stitch. (ie 12 is across from 1, 11 is across from 2, ect) See picture

fishtail

Tail

With yarn color designated for the tail, insert your hook into both aligned stitches, stitch fish body closed with a sc in each stitch couple. (6 sc)

Ch 5, work a dtr and a tr in the 1st sc, Work a dc and a hdc in the next sc, Work a sc in the next 2 sc, Work a hdc and a dc in the next sc, and a tr and a dtr in the last sc, Ch 5, sl st chain to same last sc.  Cut and secure yarn,

Dorsal Fin

With fish facing you and tail fin vertical; locate the unused loops of round 6. “Eye” a straight line between the tail and the fish front.  You will be working the unused loops on either side of that line together in rounds 6, 7 and 8. Working in this manner provides a centered a more secure attachment for the dorsal fin.  See picture

fishdorsalfin

With yarn designated for dorsal fin, *insert hook into first unused loop, yarn over, and draw back through, Insert hook into unused loop of adjacent stitch, yarn over and draw back through loop, Yarn over and draw back trough all loops on hook.* Ch 1, Repeat from * to * in the unused loops of round 7, ch 2, Repeat from * to * round 8. 

Ch 4, Work 2 dc in the same stitch worked in round 8’s unused loops, Work dc in next ch 1 space, Work hdc in the next stitch worked in round 7’s unused loops, Work a sc in the next ch 1 space, Work a sl st in the stitch worked in round 6’s unused loops. If desired, work another sl st around the post of the round 6 sc directly in front of the dorsal fin.  Cut and secure yarn.

Side fins. 

You will work one side with the fish face facing you and the other side with the tail facing you.

Again, locating the unused loops of round 6, count down 6 loops from the dorsal fin. With fin color yarn, insert hook into that unused loop and attach yarn with a sl st.  ch 1, and sc into the same loop, Working toward the dorsal fin, work 2 dc, ch3, 2 dc in the next unused loop, sc, ch1 and sl st in the next unused loop. Cut and secure yarn.  Repeat this sequence on the opposite side of the fish for the other fin.

Optional fish lips

If you are wanting plush fish and no magnet, you can create lips for your fish.

Locate the unused loops of the 1st round, Insert hook into one of the loops and attach yarn with a sl st. *Work ch 1 and sl st in the next loop* Repeat from * to * around.  Ch 1, and join to beginning sl st.  Cut and secure yarn.

With tapestry needle (or other large eye needle) bury all yarn ends into the fiber fill. 

Attach beads to create the fish eyes, bury the thread ends in the fiber fill.

Magnets

Make sure that you are using the attracting sides of the magnets. Glue one magnet to fish face. Glue the other magnet to the shank button.  Allow both ample drying time.

Fishing Pole

Attach yarn or other “line” to pole and secure with tape.  Thread other end through the shank of the button.

Now you are set for a fun fishing experience!

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015

Fashion Doll Size Chairs in Crochet

Fashion Doll Size Crochet Chairs

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 Finished size approx; 6 inches from top of chair to bottom of chair

                                      2 ¾ – 3 inches from seat to bottom of chair

                                      Seat diameter 3 inches

                                      Back diameter 3 inches

 

Materials Needed;

4ply WW yarn in color of choice and an accent color if desired

Size “H” (5 mm) crochet hook

2 – 3 inch (either purchased or made) plastic canvas round (one for seat base and one for back)

3 inch (count of 14 bars) 7 mesh plastic canvas – cut to circumference of 3 inch plastic canvas circle

Fiber Fill

Yarn Needle

Scissors (you might not want to use your good scissors to cut the plastic canvas)

Sewing Thread and long sewing needle (optional)

3 buttons (optional)

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Pattern / Instructions

 

Create Chair / seat base –

Position the plastic canvas strip along the edge of the plastic canvas round. With yarn and yarn needle, whip stitch long edge of strip to edge of round until the short end mesh meet. Cut off excess plastic canvas and whip stitch short ends of plastic canvas together.  Secure and cut yarn.

Stuff plastic canvas base with fiber fill.  You can better secure the fiber fill in place by taking some loose stitches across the base diameter with yarn.  Set base aside.

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Crochet Pattern for seat and base

Stitches used

Chain (ch)

Slip stitch (slp st)

Double Crochet (Dc)

Half Double Crochet (Hdc)

Treble Crochet (Tr)

Single Crochet (Sc)

Front Loops (FL)

 Special Notes;

There are many ways to begin a double crochet round or row. Traditionally, we are taught to begin with a ch 3. This beginning Chain acts as the 1st dc  with the second dc to be worked in the 2nd stitch.  This is an excellent beginning to a dc row or round. However, this method can also create a “gap” between the ch 3 and the next dc.  For this project, I began the dc rounds with a ch 2 and dc in the same stitch. The ch 2 does not count as a stitch, but it eliminates the gap perception.  Feel free to use any method of beginning the round that you prefer to work. Just make sure that the stitch count is consistent with the written pattern.

 At the edge of the seat, you will be instructed to ch 1 and turn the round (so the wrong side is facing you) Then you will be instructed to work the next round’s stitches around the post of the previous round’s hdc.  This method creates a very defined turn and edge to the seat. 

 With 4 ply WW yarn and “H” hook:

Make Magic Circle or Ch 3,

 Rnd 1,  Work 15 Dc in the magic circle (or in the 3rd chain from hook). Join to top of

              The beginning Dc with a slp st.  (15)  (snug up the magic circle)

 Rnd 2,  Work 2 Dc in each dc around. Join to top of beginning Dc with a Slp st.

              (30)

Rnd 3,  Ch 1, Work Hdc in the same stitch as joining and in each stitch around.

             Join to beginning Hdc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 4,  Ch 1, Turn, (wrong side facing) Work Hdc around the post of the same

             Stitch as joining, Hdc around the post of each stitch around.  Join to

             Beginning Hdc with a slp st.  (30)

Rnd 5,  Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 6,  Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st.  (30)

Rnd 7,  Dc in the FL of each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Cut and secure yarn. 

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To crochet chair base bottom; Repeat Rounds 1 through 3 of Chair seat. 

Cut and Secure yarn. 

 

Fit seat base over plastic canvas seat base.  *This will be a snug fit. But since most yarn has an inherent “stretch and relax” characteristic, (meaning it will stretch and grow bigger as it relaxes) the snug fit will help assure and nice, neat look upon completion.*  Line seat base bottom and pin to base if needed. Secure bottom to seat base sides by whip stitching or slp stitching last round stitches of bottom to last round stitches of base.  (if you are working stitch to stitch, you will have 30 stitches around)  Cut and secure yarn.  Weave in or bury ends in the fiber fill. 

 

Chair skirt.  *** Note you can complete the chair skirt prior to covering the plastic canvas.  If you do this, crochet with a looser tension to prevent a tighter fit. ***

Join yarn (either main color or an accent color) to an unused loop of round 7, Ch 3, Tr crochet in same stitch. Work 2 Tr in each stitch around.  Join to top of beginning Tr with a slp st.  (60) Cut and secure yarn. Weave in ends.

Create Chair Back

 Lightly cover a 3 inch plastic canvas round with a fiberfill layer. Lightly tack fiberfill in place as you did with the chair seat if desired.

 Crochet Pattern for Chair Back and Arms

 Back

Make 2 (for front and back)

 Make a magic circle or Ch 3,

Rnd 1, Work 15 Dc in the magic circle or in the 3rd ch of Ch 3.  Join to beginning

             Dc with a slp st.  (15)  (snug up magic circle)

Rnd 2,  Work 2 Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 3,  Ch 1, Work a Sc in the same stitch as joining.  Work a Sc in each stitch

             around.  Join to beginning Sc with a slp st.  (30)

Cut and Secure yarn.

With right sides facing out, join front and back pieces together by slp stitching around. Insert the plastic canvas round before stitching closed.  Finish slp st closing and cut and secure yarn. 

 Arms

Make 4 (for front and back of 2 arms)

Make a magic circle or Ch 3.

Rnd 1, Work 15 Dc in the magic circle or in the 3rd ch of Ch 3. Join to beginning

             Dc with a slp st. (15) (snug up magic circle)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work a Sc in same stitch as joining, Work a Sc in each stitch around.

             Join to beginning Sc with a slp st.  (15) Cut and secure yarn.

With right sides facing out, slp stitch arm front to arm back, stuffing arm with fiberfill as you slp st.  Join to beginning slp st to close.  Cut and secure yarn.

 Finishing

With yarn needle and 1 strand yarn, whip stitch chair back to chair seat working through at least 5 stitches.  Cut and secure yarn. Weave in or bury ends in fiberfill

Align arms to seat and whip stitch in place.  Then attach arm sides to back with whip stitching.  Cut and Secure yarn. Weave in or bury ends in fiberfill.

 If desired, attach decorative buttons to center points of seat and backs with sewing thread and a long sewing needle. 

 

Karen Glasgow Follett cpr. 2014

 

Crochet I – Cord Curtain Tie Backs Tiebacks

tieback1 tieback2

Materials Needed

4 ply WW Yarn of choice (you will be working with 2 strand together)

“J / 10” crochet hook 6.00 MM

Tapestry or other large eye needle to weave in ends

Double point knitting needle or other stitch holder (optional)

Tape measure (optional)

 

Stitches Used

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (slp st)

 

I – cord basics

To create crochet I- Cord

Make a foundation chain or foundation row of stitches,

Insert hook into the chain or stitch next to the hook, pull up a loop

Leave loop on hook

Repeat this process across the foundation. Number of loops on the hook should equal the number of foundation chains or stitches (ie: foundation of 3 chains or stitches = 3 loops on the hook)

Do not turn (the “right” side of the work is always facing you. As you work the I-cord, you will see that the work curves to the back to create the cord effect)

Working from left to right, carefully remove the loops and place on a double point knitting needle, stitch holder, ect, until 1 loop is left on the hook.

Work a chain with that loop

Leaving that loop on the hook and working from right to left, work a chain in the next loop

Leave that loop on hook

Repeat this process until all loops have been worked as chains. This constitutes 1 row / round of I-cord. You should end each row / round with a consistent number of loops on your hook (ie: if you started with 3 loops – you should end with 3 loops)

 

I – cord has an inherent elasticity. Many tiebacks are 25 inches long. You may want to shorten the length of your I – Cord to accommodate this elasticity. (The tiebacks in the picture are 22 inches)

 

Pattern;

With 2 strands of yarn worked together, chain 8

Join to beginning chain with a slp st to form a ring

Work a slp st into each of the next 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Work a slp stitch into the 6th chain, insert hook into the next chain and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook) Insert hook into the next chain and pull of a loop (3 loops on hook)

(this creates the I-Cord foundation of 3 loops)

*Do Not turn your work. You have 3 loops (left, middle and right loop) on your hook

Carefully remove the left and the middle loop (to stitch holder)

Chain stitch the right loop,

Leaving the loop on your hook, insert hook into the middle loop and work a chain stitch,

Leaving the 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into the left loop and work a chain stitch,

You should have 3 loops on your hook*

Repeat from * to * until you have your desired length.

Bind off with yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through 2 loops until you have 1 loop on your hook (3 stitches)

Chain 5 and join to 1st stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Turn, Work a slp st into each of the 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Join to the 3rd stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Cut and weave in ends.

 

Karen Glasgow Follett 2014

 

Crochet Scrappy Log Cabin Throw / Afghan Pattern

Crochet Scrappy Log Cabin Throw / Afghan Directions / Pattern

 

Like many Multi crafters, I have a craft room that is filled to the brim with my hoarding of (ahem .. collection of) craft material.  Since my passion lies in the needle arts, my yarn stash quite impressively rivals many ancient monoliths.  (Yarn – henge is in my craft room)

 

This over amassing of yarn has caused me to restructure my priorities.  While I do deeply desire to be victorious in the “she who has the most – wins” competition; I also recognize the distinct possibility that I might fall victim to a yarn avalanche the next time that I open my yarn closet.  (but can’t you just imagine how great it would be to be rescued by an alpaca who has circular needles in his rescue kit?)

 

Of course the solution to this overcrowding is to find a project that will allow me to use the currently amassed skeins, partial skeins, balls and assorted tid bits of yarn henge.  And, of course, there is a plethora of patterns that will enable the yarn addict in this endeavor.  Many of these patterns range from the mile a minute strips to motifs, which are perfect for busting through stashes.  Unfortunately, as I perused the piles of patterns that call my craft room home, I did not find a pattern that gave me that “new project anticipatory tingle.”

 

Personally, I happen to love quilt designs.  I am NOT a good quilter, but I love to recreate quilt motifs and designs in crochet.  I DO NOT like to sew motifs.  I want a project that “grows as you go.”  So the log cabin seemed like a perfect project. 

 

As fortune would dictate; I found quilting log cabin patterns, knitted log cabin patterns and crocheted strip and seam log cabin patterns.  Among this pyramid of patterns was not one crochet “grow as you go” log cabin pattern.  My quick look on the internet yielded much the same results … I still couldn’t find THE Log cabin pattern.

 

Since necessity and impatience are the parents of design creation, I created my own pattern to meet my needs.   Please note that I am sure that these instructions are not new.  Their simplicity pretty much assures that they are a re-invention of a previous creation.

Also note that this creation is more of a set of directions instead of a traditional pattern.  Each crocheter can adjust the directions and create a pattern that can become a one of a kind personal creation.

 

Directions

 

It is my understanding that, in traditional log cabin quilts, the center square reflects the heart (or hearth) of the home.  I chose a burgundy red as my center.  Also like a traditional log cabin quilt, each subsequent square or strip is built around this central hearth.

 

Feel free to use the picture as a reference.

The center square began as a ch 10.

Rw 1, Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each chain across (9sc)

Rws, 2 through 9, Ch 1, sc in each sc across.

Do NOT cut the yarn at the end of row 9, but join a new color (in the picture this is yellow)

 

(you can adjust the start square to any size that you choose. I prefer working in odd number stitch counts and subsequent odd number row counts) 

 

Turn center (red) square clockwise so you will be working along the side of the center square.

Rw 1, Ch 1, Sc in the side of each row of center square (9) (working over the yarn tails of the new and old yarn will decrease the tails that need to be woven in. Cut center square yarn color when desired)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, Sc in each sc across.

Join new yarn  (in the picture this is green)

Turn work clockwise (so you will working along the side of the 2nd square and along the bottom of the center square)

Rw 1, Ch 1, sc in each stitch across (18 sc) (with the addition of each strip or block, you will increase the amount of stitches across in increments of the beginning stitch count.  Since I began with a 9 sc block, I will increase 9 stitches with the addition of each new block / strip.)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, sc in each stitch across (18)

Join next color (rose in the picture)

 

Repeat the last sequence

Add next color (blue in the picture)

Turn Clockwise

Rw 1, Ch 1, Sc in each stitch across (27)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, Sc in each sc across (27)

 

Repeat the sequences of directions as you add to your log cabin throw until you reach the size that you want.  Work border as desired. 

 

2013 Karen Glasgow Follett

 

 log cabin sample