Crochet Amigurumi Fish Pattern- Catch Me If You Can!

fish2fish1

Several years ago, my sister and I received a fun fishing game for Christmas.  This was during the mid part of the 1960s – prior to much attention being placed on the safety of children and their games.  This particular game had magnetized fish that “swam” along an electrified board.  Each fish had a metal loop for a mouth and each fishing pole had a metal hook at the end of a long wire. Regardless of the significant electrical shocks that we received, we did have a good time playing this game. 

A few weeks ago, I saw a post on a social media site that showed a homemade version of this game. Plush fish were used. Each fish had a magnetic mouth and each pole had a magnet attached to the line to attract and “catch” each fish.  I couldn’t find a pattern associated with this new hand created version. After searching several sites that did provide sewing, crochet and knitting patterns of various fish, and not finding a fish style that suited my aesthetics, I decided to create my own pattern. 

This pattern was created to make this fishing game for my granddaughter. Of course, the usual disclaimers would be in place. This pattern uses magnets, poking devices and small parts, so the finished product is not be suitable for animals, small children and some adults who tend to put things in their mouths.

You will need the following supplies;

  • Yarn in both fish color and fin color, I used a 4ply ww yarn. You could adjust this to make your fish smaller or larger. This is a great stash buster as each fish doesn’t require much yarn. One skein will yield an entire school of fish
  • “E” or 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • stitch marker
  • fiber fill
  • 6mm beads for eyes
  • Sewing thread and needle
  • tapestry or other large eye needle
  • Dowel
  • Plain Shank Button
  • Tape
  • Strong Disk magnets
  • Glue
  • Scissors

fishsupplies

Fish Crochet pattern

Special notes;

Unless directed, do not join rounds. You may want to place a stitch marker (safety pin, ect) into the first stitch of each round to keep your place.

Unless directed, each stitch of the fish body is worked in the back loop only (this is the top of the stitch loop that is furthest away from you) You will be later attaching fins to some of the unused loops and the remaining unused loops give a “scale” quality to your fish.

Stitches Used

  • Chain – Ch
  • Single Crochet – sc
  • Slip stitch – Sl st
  • Double Triple Crochet – dtr
  • Triple Crochet – tr
  • Double Crochet – dc
  • Single Crochet Decrease – sc dec
  • Half double crochet – hdc

Create a magic circle or Ch 2,

Round 1,  Work 6 sc in the magic circle (or in the 2nd ch from the hook) 6

Round 2,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, work 1 sc in next sc* Repeat from * to * around (9)

Round 3,  Work 2 sc in each sc around. (18)

Round 4,  *Work 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around (24)

Round 5,   Work a sc in each sc around (24)

Rounds 6 – 8, Repeat Round 5 (24)

Round 9,  *Work sc in next 2 sc, sc dec through next 2 sc* Repeat from * to * around. (18)

Rounds 10 & 11, Work a sc in each sc around (18)

Round 12, *Work sc in next sc, sc dec through next 2 sc*  Repeat from * to * around (12)

Rounds 13 & 14, Work a sc in each sc around (12)

At the end of round 14, cut and secure yarn.  Turn fish body inside out, so the unused loops are showing on the outside of the fish body.

Stuff fish as desired with fiber fill.

Align the 12 stitches of round 14 so that each stitch lays against its opposite stitch. (ie 12 is across from 1, 11 is across from 2, ect) See picture

fishtail

Tail

With yarn color designated for the tail, insert your hook into both aligned stitches, stitch fish body closed with a sc in each stitch couple. (6 sc)

Ch 5, work a dtr and a tr in the 1st sc, Work a dc and a hdc in the next sc, Work a sc in the next 2 sc, Work a hdc and a dc in the next sc, and a tr and a dtr in the last sc, Ch 5, sl st chain to same last sc.  Cut and secure yarn,

Dorsal Fin

With fish facing you and tail fin vertical; locate the unused loops of round 6. “Eye” a straight line between the tail and the fish front.  You will be working the unused loops on either side of that line together in rounds 6, 7 and 8. Working in this manner provides a centered a more secure attachment for the dorsal fin.  See picture

fishdorsalfin

With yarn designated for dorsal fin, *insert hook into first unused loop, yarn over, and draw back through, Insert hook into unused loop of adjacent stitch, yarn over and draw back through loop, Yarn over and draw back trough all loops on hook.* Ch 1, Repeat from * to * in the unused loops of round 7, ch 2, Repeat from * to * round 8. 

Ch 4, Work 2 dc in the same stitch worked in round 8’s unused loops, Work dc in next ch 1 space, Work hdc in the next stitch worked in round 7’s unused loops, Work a sc in the next ch 1 space, Work a sl st in the stitch worked in round 6’s unused loops. If desired, work another sl st around the post of the round 6 sc directly in front of the dorsal fin.  Cut and secure yarn.

Side fins. 

You will work one side with the fish face facing you and the other side with the tail facing you.

Again, locating the unused loops of round 6, count down 6 loops from the dorsal fin. With fin color yarn, insert hook into that unused loop and attach yarn with a sl st.  ch 1, and sc into the same loop, Working toward the dorsal fin, work 2 dc, ch3, 2 dc in the next unused loop, sc, ch1 and sl st in the next unused loop. Cut and secure yarn.  Repeat this sequence on the opposite side of the fish for the other fin.

Optional fish lips

If you are wanting plush fish and no magnet, you can create lips for your fish.

Locate the unused loops of the 1st round, Insert hook into one of the loops and attach yarn with a sl st. *Work ch 1 and sl st in the next loop* Repeat from * to * around.  Ch 1, and join to beginning sl st.  Cut and secure yarn.

With tapestry needle (or other large eye needle) bury all yarn ends into the fiber fill. 

Attach beads to create the fish eyes, bury the thread ends in the fiber fill.

Magnets

Make sure that you are using the attracting sides of the magnets. Glue one magnet to fish face. Glue the other magnet to the shank button.  Allow both ample drying time.

Fishing Pole

Attach yarn or other “line” to pole and secure with tape.  Thread other end through the shank of the button.

Now you are set for a fun fishing experience!

Karen Glasgow Follett 2015

Fashion Doll Size Chairs in Crochet

Fashion Doll Size Crochet Chairs

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 Finished size approx; 6 inches from top of chair to bottom of chair

                                      2 ¾ – 3 inches from seat to bottom of chair

                                      Seat diameter 3 inches

                                      Back diameter 3 inches

 

Materials Needed;

4ply WW yarn in color of choice and an accent color if desired

Size “H” (5 mm) crochet hook

2 – 3 inch (either purchased or made) plastic canvas round (one for seat base and one for back)

3 inch (count of 14 bars) 7 mesh plastic canvas – cut to circumference of 3 inch plastic canvas circle

Fiber Fill

Yarn Needle

Scissors (you might not want to use your good scissors to cut the plastic canvas)

Sewing Thread and long sewing needle (optional)

3 buttons (optional)

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Pattern / Instructions

 

Create Chair / seat base –

Position the plastic canvas strip along the edge of the plastic canvas round. With yarn and yarn needle, whip stitch long edge of strip to edge of round until the short end mesh meet. Cut off excess plastic canvas and whip stitch short ends of plastic canvas together.  Secure and cut yarn.

Stuff plastic canvas base with fiber fill.  You can better secure the fiber fill in place by taking some loose stitches across the base diameter with yarn.  Set base aside.

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Crochet Pattern for seat and base

Stitches used

Chain (ch)

Slip stitch (slp st)

Double Crochet (Dc)

Half Double Crochet (Hdc)

Treble Crochet (Tr)

Single Crochet (Sc)

Front Loops (FL)

 Special Notes;

There are many ways to begin a double crochet round or row. Traditionally, we are taught to begin with a ch 3. This beginning Chain acts as the 1st dc  with the second dc to be worked in the 2nd stitch.  This is an excellent beginning to a dc row or round. However, this method can also create a “gap” between the ch 3 and the next dc.  For this project, I began the dc rounds with a ch 2 and dc in the same stitch. The ch 2 does not count as a stitch, but it eliminates the gap perception.  Feel free to use any method of beginning the round that you prefer to work. Just make sure that the stitch count is consistent with the written pattern.

 At the edge of the seat, you will be instructed to ch 1 and turn the round (so the wrong side is facing you) Then you will be instructed to work the next round’s stitches around the post of the previous round’s hdc.  This method creates a very defined turn and edge to the seat. 

 With 4 ply WW yarn and “H” hook:

Make Magic Circle or Ch 3,

 Rnd 1,  Work 15 Dc in the magic circle (or in the 3rd chain from hook). Join to top of

              The beginning Dc with a slp st.  (15)  (snug up the magic circle)

 Rnd 2,  Work 2 Dc in each dc around. Join to top of beginning Dc with a Slp st.

              (30)

Rnd 3,  Ch 1, Work Hdc in the same stitch as joining and in each stitch around.

             Join to beginning Hdc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 4,  Ch 1, Turn, (wrong side facing) Work Hdc around the post of the same

             Stitch as joining, Hdc around the post of each stitch around.  Join to

             Beginning Hdc with a slp st.  (30)

Rnd 5,  Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 6,  Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st.  (30)

Rnd 7,  Dc in the FL of each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Cut and secure yarn. 

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To crochet chair base bottom; Repeat Rounds 1 through 3 of Chair seat. 

Cut and Secure yarn. 

 

Fit seat base over plastic canvas seat base.  *This will be a snug fit. But since most yarn has an inherent “stretch and relax” characteristic, (meaning it will stretch and grow bigger as it relaxes) the snug fit will help assure and nice, neat look upon completion.*  Line seat base bottom and pin to base if needed. Secure bottom to seat base sides by whip stitching or slp stitching last round stitches of bottom to last round stitches of base.  (if you are working stitch to stitch, you will have 30 stitches around)  Cut and secure yarn.  Weave in or bury ends in the fiber fill. 

 

Chair skirt.  *** Note you can complete the chair skirt prior to covering the plastic canvas.  If you do this, crochet with a looser tension to prevent a tighter fit. ***

Join yarn (either main color or an accent color) to an unused loop of round 7, Ch 3, Tr crochet in same stitch. Work 2 Tr in each stitch around.  Join to top of beginning Tr with a slp st.  (60) Cut and secure yarn. Weave in ends.

Create Chair Back

 Lightly cover a 3 inch plastic canvas round with a fiberfill layer. Lightly tack fiberfill in place as you did with the chair seat if desired.

 Crochet Pattern for Chair Back and Arms

 Back

Make 2 (for front and back)

 Make a magic circle or Ch 3,

Rnd 1, Work 15 Dc in the magic circle or in the 3rd ch of Ch 3.  Join to beginning

             Dc with a slp st.  (15)  (snug up magic circle)

Rnd 2,  Work 2 Dc in each stitch around. Join to beginning Dc with a slp st. (30)

Rnd 3,  Ch 1, Work a Sc in the same stitch as joining.  Work a Sc in each stitch

             around.  Join to beginning Sc with a slp st.  (30)

Cut and Secure yarn.

With right sides facing out, join front and back pieces together by slp stitching around. Insert the plastic canvas round before stitching closed.  Finish slp st closing and cut and secure yarn. 

 Arms

Make 4 (for front and back of 2 arms)

Make a magic circle or Ch 3.

Rnd 1, Work 15 Dc in the magic circle or in the 3rd ch of Ch 3. Join to beginning

             Dc with a slp st. (15) (snug up magic circle)

Rnd 2, Ch 1, Work a Sc in same stitch as joining, Work a Sc in each stitch around.

             Join to beginning Sc with a slp st.  (15) Cut and secure yarn.

With right sides facing out, slp stitch arm front to arm back, stuffing arm with fiberfill as you slp st.  Join to beginning slp st to close.  Cut and secure yarn.

 Finishing

With yarn needle and 1 strand yarn, whip stitch chair back to chair seat working through at least 5 stitches.  Cut and secure yarn. Weave in or bury ends in fiberfill

Align arms to seat and whip stitch in place.  Then attach arm sides to back with whip stitching.  Cut and Secure yarn. Weave in or bury ends in fiberfill.

 If desired, attach decorative buttons to center points of seat and backs with sewing thread and a long sewing needle. 

 

Karen Glasgow Follett cpr. 2014

 

Crochet I – Cord Curtain Tie Backs Tiebacks

tieback1 tieback2

Materials Needed

4 ply WW Yarn of choice (you will be working with 2 strand together)

“J / 10” crochet hook 6.00 MM

Tapestry or other large eye needle to weave in ends

Double point knitting needle or other stitch holder (optional)

Tape measure (optional)

 

Stitches Used

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (slp st)

 

I – cord basics

To create crochet I- Cord

Make a foundation chain or foundation row of stitches,

Insert hook into the chain or stitch next to the hook, pull up a loop

Leave loop on hook

Repeat this process across the foundation. Number of loops on the hook should equal the number of foundation chains or stitches (ie: foundation of 3 chains or stitches = 3 loops on the hook)

Do not turn (the “right” side of the work is always facing you. As you work the I-cord, you will see that the work curves to the back to create the cord effect)

Working from left to right, carefully remove the loops and place on a double point knitting needle, stitch holder, ect, until 1 loop is left on the hook.

Work a chain with that loop

Leaving that loop on the hook and working from right to left, work a chain in the next loop

Leave that loop on hook

Repeat this process until all loops have been worked as chains. This constitutes 1 row / round of I-cord. You should end each row / round with a consistent number of loops on your hook (ie: if you started with 3 loops – you should end with 3 loops)

 

I – cord has an inherent elasticity. Many tiebacks are 25 inches long. You may want to shorten the length of your I – Cord to accommodate this elasticity. (The tiebacks in the picture are 22 inches)

 

Pattern;

With 2 strands of yarn worked together, chain 8

Join to beginning chain with a slp st to form a ring

Work a slp st into each of the next 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Work a slp stitch into the 6th chain, insert hook into the next chain and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook) Insert hook into the next chain and pull of a loop (3 loops on hook)

(this creates the I-Cord foundation of 3 loops)

*Do Not turn your work. You have 3 loops (left, middle and right loop) on your hook

Carefully remove the left and the middle loop (to stitch holder)

Chain stitch the right loop,

Leaving the loop on your hook, insert hook into the middle loop and work a chain stitch,

Leaving the 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into the left loop and work a chain stitch,

You should have 3 loops on your hook*

Repeat from * to * until you have your desired length.

Bind off with yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through 2 loops until you have 1 loop on your hook (3 stitches)

Chain 5 and join to 1st stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Turn, Work a slp st into each of the 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Join to the 3rd stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Cut and weave in ends.

 

Karen Glasgow Follett 2014

 

Crochet Scrappy Log Cabin Throw / Afghan Pattern

Crochet Scrappy Log Cabin Throw / Afghan Directions / Pattern

 

Like many Multi crafters, I have a craft room that is filled to the brim with my hoarding of (ahem .. collection of) craft material.  Since my passion lies in the needle arts, my yarn stash quite impressively rivals many ancient monoliths.  (Yarn – henge is in my craft room)

 

This over amassing of yarn has caused me to restructure my priorities.  While I do deeply desire to be victorious in the “she who has the most – wins” competition; I also recognize the distinct possibility that I might fall victim to a yarn avalanche the next time that I open my yarn closet.  (but can’t you just imagine how great it would be to be rescued by an alpaca who has circular needles in his rescue kit?)

 

Of course the solution to this overcrowding is to find a project that will allow me to use the currently amassed skeins, partial skeins, balls and assorted tid bits of yarn henge.  And, of course, there is a plethora of patterns that will enable the yarn addict in this endeavor.  Many of these patterns range from the mile a minute strips to motifs, which are perfect for busting through stashes.  Unfortunately, as I perused the piles of patterns that call my craft room home, I did not find a pattern that gave me that “new project anticipatory tingle.”

 

Personally, I happen to love quilt designs.  I am NOT a good quilter, but I love to recreate quilt motifs and designs in crochet.  I DO NOT like to sew motifs.  I want a project that “grows as you go.”  So the log cabin seemed like a perfect project. 

 

As fortune would dictate; I found quilting log cabin patterns, knitted log cabin patterns and crocheted strip and seam log cabin patterns.  Among this pyramid of patterns was not one crochet “grow as you go” log cabin pattern.  My quick look on the internet yielded much the same results … I still couldn’t find THE Log cabin pattern.

 

Since necessity and impatience are the parents of design creation, I created my own pattern to meet my needs.   Please note that I am sure that these instructions are not new.  Their simplicity pretty much assures that they are a re-invention of a previous creation.

Also note that this creation is more of a set of directions instead of a traditional pattern.  Each crocheter can adjust the directions and create a pattern that can become a one of a kind personal creation.

 

Directions

 

It is my understanding that, in traditional log cabin quilts, the center square reflects the heart (or hearth) of the home.  I chose a burgundy red as my center.  Also like a traditional log cabin quilt, each subsequent square or strip is built around this central hearth.

 

Feel free to use the picture as a reference.

The center square began as a ch 10.

Rw 1, Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each chain across (9sc)

Rws, 2 through 9, Ch 1, sc in each sc across.

Do NOT cut the yarn at the end of row 9, but join a new color (in the picture this is yellow)

 

(you can adjust the start square to any size that you choose. I prefer working in odd number stitch counts and subsequent odd number row counts) 

 

Turn center (red) square clockwise so you will be working along the side of the center square.

Rw 1, Ch 1, Sc in the side of each row of center square (9) (working over the yarn tails of the new and old yarn will decrease the tails that need to be woven in. Cut center square yarn color when desired)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, Sc in each sc across.

Join new yarn  (in the picture this is green)

Turn work clockwise (so you will working along the side of the 2nd square and along the bottom of the center square)

Rw 1, Ch 1, sc in each stitch across (18 sc) (with the addition of each strip or block, you will increase the amount of stitches across in increments of the beginning stitch count.  Since I began with a 9 sc block, I will increase 9 stitches with the addition of each new block / strip.)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, sc in each stitch across (18)

Join next color (rose in the picture)

 

Repeat the last sequence

Add next color (blue in the picture)

Turn Clockwise

Rw 1, Ch 1, Sc in each stitch across (27)

Rws 2 through 9, Ch 1, Sc in each sc across (27)

 

Repeat the sequences of directions as you add to your log cabin throw until you reach the size that you want.  Work border as desired. 

 

2013 Karen Glasgow Follett

 

 log cabin sample

Steampunk meets crochet with this Crochet Skeleton Key Pattern

Skeleton Keys

Crochet Skeleton Key Pattern

Materials Needed;

1 Ball of size 10 thread (you will work 2 strands together throughout the piece)

1 size “6” steel crochet hook

Needle to weave in ends

Choice of stiffener to shape piece

Rust proof pins to hold piece in place while being shaped

 

Stitches used;

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet

 

Key Handle

Ch 13,

Taking care not to twist the chain, join to the beg ch with a sl st.

Ch 1 and sc in the same ch as joining

Work 1 sc in the next 2 chs,  Work 2 sc in the next 3 chs, Work 1 sc in the next 3 chs,

Work 2 sc in the next 3 chs, Work 1 sc in the last 2 chs.  Join to beg sc with a sl st. (19)

(do not cut thread, you will now begin working on the shaft of the key)

 

Key shaft

Loosely ch 22,

Turn, loosely sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across to key handle (21)

Skip the beg sc that is the base of the key shaft ch. 

Ch 1, sl st in the sc next to the skipped sc of the key handle.  Ch 1 and sl st in each sc around.  (19 sl st)

Ch 1,  sl st in the first unworked loop of the ch key shaft.  Sl st in the unworked loops of each ch across (21)

Turn, sl st in the first 2 sl st, ch 2, work 1 dc in the next 2 sl st, ch 2 and join to next sl st.  Cut thread and weave in ends.

*** These would have so many uses! You could use these for appliques on pillows, bags, shirts, etc.  You could use this as a pendant (you would probably want to include a couple of beads or something for weight) a key fob, a bookmark or you name it!***

 

Cpr Karen Glasgow Follett Dec 2012

 

 

Broomstick Lace Crochet Halo Scarf

 

Broomstick Lace Crochet Halo Scarf

Lace Created working in the Round

 

Materials;

2 Balls (175 yards / 160m – Net Wt 2.5 oz / 70 g) 4ply WW Yarn

Red Heart Boutique Eclipse in Storm Blue used for sample

Size “I” Crochet Hook

2 Size 35 Knitting Needles.

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Scissors

Pattern Notes

The finished size is approx 42 inches around by 6 inches wide.  If you want the finished item longer, begin with a longer foundation row worked in multiples of 5 stitches.  If you want the finished item wider, just add additional rounds of lace.

Each round of broomstick lace is worked in 2 passes.  The forward pass places (loops) the yarn on the broomstick (needle), The return pass completes the round by crocheting 5 loops together (you work 5 sc in the middle of each 5 loop grouping).

You can either remove the loops from the needle as you crochet or you can remove all of the loops from both needles prior to the return pass.  Take care that you do not lose any loops. You can thread a piece of yarn through the “live loops” to ensure that they are not lost or dropped.

Typically you use only one knitting needle when working broomstick lace. Since you are working this project in the round, you will be using 2 needles. You will place approximately ½ the stitches on one needle and the other half on the other needle.  If you can find circular needles in the correct size, those work well too.

You do not turn the work.  The right side is the side facing you.  You will join each round to the beginning stitch with a sl st.

Pattern

With “I” hook, Ch 225.  Taking care not to twist the chain, join the chain tog with a sl st to form a circle.

Rnd 1, Ch 3 (this counts as the first dc through out the pattern) Dc in next ch and in each ch around.  Join to top of beg ch 3 with a sl st (225)

Rnd 2, Working the the BL of each stitch, complete the forward pass of the broomstick.  Return pass – remove 5 loops from the needle, hold tog, insert hook into the middle of the loops, yo, pull hook back through, Ch 1 (Work a chain 1 ONLY at the beginning of each return pass) work 5 sc in the middle of the 5 loops held tog.  Continue to works loops in groups of 5 held tog with 5 sc around (you will have 45 lace motifs) Join to beg sc with a sl st.

Rnds 3 – 8, Rpt Round 2.

Rnd 9,  Ch 3, dc in each the BL of each sc around.  Join to top of beg ch 3.

Cut and secure yarn, weave in ends.

cpr October 2012 Karen Glasgow Follett

 

 

Fabric Crochet Gathering Basket Pattern

Crochet Fabric Basket Pattern

 

Materials List

3 yards of fabric (cotton, broadcloth, shirting etc) CUT in to 3 inch strips.

(approx 40 yards of 3 inch strips)

 “Q” hook (aka Jiffy Hook)

 “L” hook (or smaller hook to weave in ends)

 Scissors, Stitch markers

 

Stitches Used,

Chain – Ch

Single Crochet – Sc

Slip stitch – Sl st.

 

 

Pattern

(do not join rounds unless instructed, mark the beg stitch with a marker)

 Ch 2,

 Rnd 1,  Work 8 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook  (8)

 Rnd 2,  Work 2 sc in each stitch around (16

 Rnd 3,  Work 2 sc in beg sc, Work 1 sc in next stitch.  *Work 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in

              Next sc*  Rpt from * to * around.  (24)  Join to beg sc with a sl st.

 Rnd 4,  Ch 1, sc in the back loop of joining stitch.  Sc in the back loop of each stitch

              Around, (24) Do not join

 Rnd 5,  Work a sc in each stitch around (24)

 Rnd 6, Work a sc in each stitch around (24) Join to beg sc with a sl st.  Cut fabric

            And weave in ends.

 

Turn basket “inside out,” so the public side is facing out.

 Handle

Beginning with the first sc of rnd 6, place stitch markers through stitch 1 and stitch 2.  Then place stitch markers through stitch 12 and stitch 13.

Join Fabric through stitch 1, ch 17, Taking care not to twist chain, join to stitch 12 with a sl st.

Then slp st to stitch 13, work a sl st into the top (closest loop to hook) loop of each handle chain.  (17)  Sl st to stitch 2.  Cut fabric and weave in ends.

 

Karen Glasgow Follett cpr 2012

    

Fabric crochet Gathering Basket

Love’s Enchantment Dream Pillow Crochet Pattern

Love’s Dream Enchantment Pillow

Approximately 11 inches

CPR Karen Glasgow Follett 2011

 

                        

  Dream magic is the magic of the infinite soul.. All obstacles (untoward patterns, limiting judgments, lack of confidence, ete.) imposed by the ego are transcended.  The consciousness of the dream state is that of the Higher Self.  In this realm the Higher Self (or infinite Soul) conducts the universal abundance and conveys the universal wisdom in response to the intent of our magical desires.

Magic is of the realm that knows no limitations of time or space.  Magic is used when magic is needed.   But it is universally recognized that there are events that occur when nature “paves the way” for the energies of magical work.  Since this creation is primarily one of attraction, many people may wish to begin during the waxing phases of the moon and complete with the full moon.

To create this magically enhanced pillow, you will need;

1 skein 4 ply ww yarn in a main color

1 skein 4 ply ww yarn in a complimentary color. “A”

1 skein 4 ply ww yarn in a complimentary color “B”

Small amount ¼ inch ribbon.

The colors selected for the pictured pillow are those most often associated with love.

Red – attraction, passion, intensity, love

Pink – Romance, gentleness, love

White – purity, flow of energy

Size “G” crochet hook

Large eye needle (ie tapestry needle) to weave in ends and to sew on “core” pocket.

Fiber fill stuffing

Mix herbs (such as rose petals, or lavender) or essential oils ( such as rose, sandalwood, or jasmine) that are associated with love attraction with the fiber fill.  Focus on the intent of your spell as you mix to “infuse” the fiber fill with the energy of your desires.

Centered on both sides of the pillow are “core pockets”  These pockets will contain symbols of the “core of your radiating energy” and the “core of the energy that you desire to be drawn to you.”  These symbols can be a written list of attributes, or runes, or gemstones (such as garnet or rose quartz, clear quartz, etc)  You can either decide on these symbols prior to beginning your pillow, or, you may get an even stronger sense of these symbols while you work on the creation of the pillow.  *These pockets can be worked as shown on the graph (as a square) or as a heart as shown the pictures*

The art of crochet works perfectly in tandem with the art of magical creation.  Projecting the energy of your focused intent infuses your creation with the magic of your desires.  As you work the repetitive stitches of crochet (or any needlework) your brain shifts into an alpha state of function.  The energy waves generated during this mind state are synchronized with the energy of the earth.   This harmony carries the energies of manifestation to this plane of existence.

The crochet stitches that you will use for this pillow are a slip stitch (slp st)  single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc) chain (ch). Treble (Tc), Treble crochet cluster (Tc CL).  You will also be working from a graph that will indicate the change of color necessary to create the images in the crochet fabric.

To work a treble crochet cluster; Y.O twice,* insert hook into designated stitch, YO, pull back through, Work off 2 loops, YO, work off 2 loops*,  Do not complete last step, but YO twice and repeat from * to * then YO and work off remaining loops.  This completes the stitch.

The charts included with this pattern begin at the lower right.  The first row of single crochets is row 1.  This row and all subsequent odd numbered rows are worked from the right to the left and are considered to be the front or “right” side of the work.  The even numbered rows are worked from left to right and are considered to be the inside or “back” side of the work.  The marked squares indicate the changes of color from main color to the complimentary color.

To change color in crochet; work the stitch just prior to the color change to the last step (in this pattern, there will be 2 loops on the hook)  Yarn over in the new color and complete the stitch.   In this pattern you can complete the heart color changes by holding the unused color yarn to the back side of the piece and working your single crochets over this unused yarn until it is needed again.  Instead of carrying the unused color of yarn from heart to heart, you may want to drop the complimentary color after the completion of one heart.  You can make a separate ball of complimentary color yarn to create the next heart color changes.   Using the tapestry needle, weave in the ends (or tails) on the back side of the fabric.

We are the centers of our universe.  Our thoughts, beliefs and expectations create the people, the events and the situations in our lives.  Since we are at the core of all that we attract; begin your pillow with the first chart of “radiating out.”   (if it makes more sense to you to change the pattern charts, please feel free to do so.  This is your magic and your intent supersedes any instruction that I have written)

If you know that you have patterns of thought and behavior that have historically attracted those who are not in your best interest; you may want to resolve these patterns prior to beginning this work.  Or you may want to meditate in communication with your Higher Self to focus on the true, beautiful, authentic “you” who deserves to attract nothing less than the best.

Begin the chart with a chain of 46.  Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across for 45 single crochets.  As you work the radiating chart, visualize the wonderful you that you are radiating out.  The energy body that knows that you deserve to thrive in love with yourself and then to thrive in love with another person.  Focus on the attributes that are you or focus on the Higher Self flow of radiant energy.   At the end of row 45, cut and secure the yarn.

Maintaining the Higher Self radiant focus, begin the core pocket (or optional heart).  Chain 16.  Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across for 15 single crochets.  Complete the pocket as per the chart .  Using yarn and the tapestry needle, sewing the pocket to the center of the pillow side.  Insert your symbol of your “core.”

Before you begin the “attraction in” chart, please pay heed to the “high probabilities” that are associated with magical attraction.   One probability is that you will receive what you request.  Keep this in mind.  Allow your Higher Self to know and to draw toward you the energy for your greater good.  (not the gorgeous blonde with the six pack abs and great glutes  that you met last week)  A second probability is that – in order to receive – you must be willing to receive.  Pay close attention to any of those “self limiting” voices or feelings that may emerge while you work.  Please work with these feeling prior to attraction as their “energy of expectation” could be a magnetic pull.  A third probability is that any sustained energy for any thoughts will draw their thought creations toward you.  So if you focus on “what you don’t want;” you will draw exactly “what you don’t want.”

Begin the “attraction in” chart with a chain of 46.  Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and  single crochet in each chain across for a total of 45 single crochets.

Visualize the Higher Self energy magnetizing the energy attraction for your greater good.  The attributes that will nourish and nurture you.  Work the piece as per the chart.  At the end of row 45, cut and secure the yarn.

Complete the core attraction in pocket as per the chart while maintaining the focus of the Higher Self.  Sew the pocket to the center of the attraction fabric.  Insert the symbol of the attraction energy.

OR to work the heart;

Ch 2,

1)      Work a sc in the 2nd chain from the hook

2)      Ch 1, Work 3 sc in the sc, (3)

3)      Ch 1 Work a sc in each sc across (3)

4)      Ch 1, Work 2 sc in first sc, sc in 2nd sc, and 2 sc in last sc, (5)

5)      Repeat row 4  (7)

6)      Repeat row 4 (9)

7)      Ch 1, sc in each sc across (9)

8)      Ch 1, sc in each sc across (9)

9)      Do not work sc, Slp st in to first stitch, * Skip next stitch, Work 5 dc in the next stitch, Skip next stitch, slp st in next stitch*. Rpt from * to *.  Do not fasten off

Work edge; Ch 1 sc in same slp st on row 9, Evenly space 7 sc along side to tip of heart; Ch 1, sc in tip, Ch 1, Evenly space 7 sc along side to row 9; Work sc in each dc, Slp st in the base of the slp st. Work sc in remaining 5 dc, slp stitch to beg sc.

Cut and fasten off yarn

Attach Red (or other cc) to back loop of heart edge, Ch 1, sc, in same stitch as joining.  Ch 1, sc in the back loop of each stitch around.  Ch 1, join to beg sc.

Attach to pillow from row 9, along tip to row 9 on the other side.

Attach ribbon as desired.

Blend fiber fill maintaining your focused intent.

Hold the” radiating out” and the “attraction in” sides together with right sides facing out.

You will attach these side together by working sc in to the back loops of each stitch)  The back loops are the loops of the stitch that are the furthest away from the right side of the crocheted piece. In this instance the back loops are the loops that are sandwiched together.

Working in the back loops through both pieces; Join complimentary color with a slp st through the back loops  at any corner. Ch 1, work 2 sc in the corner. * Work a sc in the back loops of each stitch across to corner, work 3 sc in corner.*  rpt from * to  * twice.  Insert fiber fill as needed as you work up the last side. Work sc in each sc along side to beg corner, work sc in the beg corner, join to beg sc with slp st.  Do not cut for fasten off yarn.

In same space; Ch 4, tbc. Ch 1, Tc CL, in same corner space. * Ch 1, Tc CL in each stitch across to corner.  Ch 1, Tc CL, ch 1, Tc CL in corner. * Rpt from * to * twice.  Ch 1, work tbc cl in each stitch to beg corner, ch 1, join to begin cluster.  Cut and fasten off yarn.

Join CC “B” in to the unused loops of beginning edge sc, Work sc ch 1, in each unused loop around.  Join to beg sc with slp st.  Cut and fasten off yarn.

To complete the spell gather your pillow and a pen and paper to your bedside.  As you relax and meditate to your Higher Self, state these or similar words;

“Through slumber’s waves of starry night –

Together our souls call

Together our energies draw

To Love’s attraction of full moon’s light.”

Visualize the magnetic swirl of energy from your etheric body; the Higher Self energy of love’s attraction.  Focus on your feelings of welcomed and nourishing love.  Focus on these feelings and this love being yours in the here and now.  Allow yourself to drift off to sleep, affirming that your Higher Self will bring you the desires of your greater good.

Before arising in the morning, journal any dreams, perceptions or feelings that emerge with your initial awakening.  Thank the universe and affirm that love is attracted to you.

Know that you have expressed your intent to the all knowing and all loving universe.  The universe will answer your intent with the messages and the events that will lead you to a place of unconditional love and nourishment.

**Please note that, as with all spell work; the magic is within the practitioner; not within the spell itself.  Your results may vary**

(graph to follow on next page)

Cpr Karen Glasgow – Follett  2007 updated 2011.

*** Note – This graph has been quite stubborn with uploading.  If you are having trouble seeing the graph (which the entire pattern is based) please feel free to email me at underthemoon3@aol.com.  Place Love’s Enchantment (or some such) in the subject line and I will be happy to email you a PDF of the pattern.  THIS OFFER EXPIRES 12/31/12

Crochet Pattern “No Peeking” Christmas Stocking

I first created this bag as the wrap for a gift that was being given to a friend.  This friend had long been in search for a special tarot deck.  After – what seemed like – an exhaustive search, we found the elusive deck.  This lovely deck needed a special way to present it as a gift.  So this bag was birthed.

While the initial intent of this bag was for a tarot deck; the approximately 5 by 7 inch bag is so perfect for so many gift giving ideas.  How perfect would  this be for secret Santa’s, gifts for those who add so much to our lives (neighbors, friends, mail carriers, hair stylists, etc)?  Its like giving 2 gifts in 1!

Materials needed:

1 ball 4ply ww crochet cotton in main color (MC)

1 ball 4 ply ww crochet cotton in complimentary / cuff color (CC)

Size F crochet hook

Large eye needle to weave in ends

Safety pins (optional to keep sides together and to mark stitches)

One button of approximately 7/8 to 1 inch in diameter.

Sewing thread and needle

Stitches Used:

Ch – Chain

Sc – Single Crochet

Dbc – Double Crochet

Slpst – Slip stitch

Sc inc  –  single crochet increase

Sc dec –  single crochet decrease

 

Pattern:

Sides (make 2)

Stocking is worked from the top down

Turn work at the end of each row

 

With Cuff Color Chain 22.

Rw 1 – Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across (21)

 Rw 2 – 7 Ch 1,  Sc in each sc across (21)

 Drop Cuff color and join main color

 Rw 8 – 20, Ch 1, Sc in each sc across (21)

 Rw 21 – Ch 1, Sc in next 19 stitches, Sc inc in next 2 stitches (23

 Rw 22 – Ch 3, Sc in 2nd chain from hook, Sc in next chain, Sc in each stitch

Across  (25)

 Rw 23 – Ch 1, Sc across to last sc,  Sc inc in last sc (26)

 Rw 24 – Ch 1, Sc in each sc across (26)

 Rw 25 – Ch 1, Sc in each sc across to last sc.  Sc inc in last sc, (27)

 Rw 26 –  Ch 2,Sc in the 2nd ch from hook.  Sc in each sc across to last

               2 sc.  Sc dec through last 2 sc (27)

 Rw 27 – Ch 1, (Sc dec) 2 times,  Sc across to last 2 sc.  Sc inc

               In each of the last 2 sc.  (27)

 Rw 28 – Ch 1, Sc in each sc across to last 2 sc,  Sc dec (26)

 Rw 29 – Slpst in 1st 2 stitches, Sc in remaining 24 stitches

               (26 total stitches)

 Rw 30 – Ch 1, Sc in next 23 sc, Slp st in next stitch

               (24 total stitches)

 Rw 31 – Slpst in next 8 stitches, Sc in next 14 stitches (to last 2 stitches)

               Sc dec through last 2 stitches.  (23 total stitches)

 Rw 32 – Ch 1, Sc in next 13 stitches, Sc dec through next 2 stitches

               (14 total stitches)

 Rw 33 – Slpst in 1st 5 stitches, Sc in next 7 stitches, Sc dec

               (13 total stitches)

 Rw 34 – Ch 1, Sc dec, sc next 4 stitches, Sc dec (6 total stitches)

 Rw 35 – Slp st 3 stitches, Sc 3 stitches (6 total stitches)

 Cut and secure yarn.

Cuff Flap pattern

Chain 20

Rw 1- Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook.  Sc in each chain across (19)

 Rw 2 – 7 – Ch 1, Sc in each sc across.  (19)

 Rw 8 – (Sc dec) 2 times.  Sc in each sc to last 4 sc.  (Sc dec) 2 times in last

             4 sc.  (15)

 Rw 9 – Sc dec, Sc in next 4 sc, Ch 3, Skip 3 stitches, Sc next 4 sc, Sc dec.

             (13)

 Row 10 – Sc dec Sc in next 3 sc, Work 5 dbc in chain 3 loop, Sc in next 3

                 Sc,  Sc dec.  Cut and secure yarn.

 Align cuff top to top of one stocking side.  There will be one unworked stitch on either side of the stocking top. 

Join Yarn through both cuff and stocking at top right with a sc.  Sc in each stitch across (19)  Do not cut yarn

 

Strap

In the 19th sc, chain 11 (or chains that are equivalent ot the length of strap that you desire) 

Careful not to twist the chain, join back to cuff / stocking top in sc 19 with a slip stitch.  Slip stitch in sc 18 of cuff stocking, turn.

Sc in each chain of strap, slip stitch back into sc 19.  Cut and secure yarn.

 Layer side with cuff (cuff facing out) atop other stocking side. (this is with right sides facing inside together, you will turn the stocking “inside out” when seams are sewn)

Align edges.  Sew edges together with whip stitching or with single crochet.

Cut and secure yarn, weave in all ends. 

 Center front flap over stocking front.  Place button under the button hole of the front flap.  Sew in place. 

 

Cpr Karen Glasgow – Follett 2008

Nature Spells – LadyBug Crochet Pattern

Lady Bug

 The LadyBug speaks;  ” Whisper your wishes for me to hear – And I will take them  to the Wishkeeper’s ear.  Upon my return, I’ll bring with me – your heart’s desire and destiny.”

  The legends surrounding ladybugs are about as prolific as the “in real life”ladybugs that fly about on the spring breeze.  One common denominator that seems to cross the boundaries of  cultures and of periods of time is the belief that ladybugs are associated with luck, love and the granting of wishes and prayers. 

 

            My favorite ladybug legend is that of the “wish carrier.”  The legend asserts

that “If you gently cup a ladybug in your hand while making a wish; the released ladybug will carry your wish to the ‘wish – keepers on High’  and truly … if you believe … your wish will come true in the blink of an eye.”  It is this wonderful legend that I kept in mind while I created the pattern for the ladybug.

Each ladybug is approximately 1 ½ inches in length.  You make the ladybug you will need;

Size 10 thread in main color (you can adjust the color depending on your manifestation desires) and in black or complimentary color for the ladybugs belly and head

Size 7 steel crochet hook

Large eye needle to sewing top and bottom together and for cross stitch “dots”

Cotton ball for stuffing ( you can also blend in herb or essential oil or a small gemstone to compliment you manifestation desires)

Fabric glue optional to secure thread ends

 

Stitches used

Sc – single crochet

Slp st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

 

Pattern

 

Ch 8,

1)      Work 3 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook (these 3 sc will begin the head, you will be slip stitching into the 1st and the 3rd sc with each round, you will not work over these stitches until you work the head)

Work a sc into each chain to the end (5sc)

Work 3 sc into the end chain (this creates the ladybug bottom)

Work a sc into each of the unused loops of foundation chain to the 1st sc of head, slp stitch into that 1st sc.  Turn

2)      Work a sc in each sc around (13 sc) slp st into 3rd sc of head, turn

 3)      Work a sc in each of the next 2 sc, Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc,

Work a sc in each of the next 3 sc

Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, Work a sc in each of the next 2 sc, (19 sc)

Slp st into the 1st sc of head.  Turn

    4 & 5)  Work a sc in each sc around, slp st into head sc. Turn

 6)      Work a sc in each sc around, Slp st into 3rd sc of head.

Cut thread (leaving a long tail that will be used for sewing the top of the lady bug to the underside) and Secure

 

     With black or complimentary color thread, Join at the center bottom sc, work surface crochet stitching through top center (including through foundation chain) to center (2nd) sc of head  Do not cut thread as you will be working the head with that same thread.

 Head

Work a slp st into 2nd sc of head and then into 3rd sc of head. Turn

Work 2sc in same stitch, Work 1 sc in 2nd sc of head, Work 2 sc in the 1st sc of head. Turn

Sc decrease through 2 sc, Sc in 2nd sc of head, Sc decrease through next 2 sc.

Cut thread (leaving a long tail that will be used for sewing the head top to underside head) and secure thread.

 

Use double thread and needle to make cross stitch dots on back as desired.

 

Lady bug underside

 With black or complimentary color thread work as with top through round 4 (you will be ending with a slp st in 3rd sc of head) Do Not cut thread –

Work 2 sc in 3rd sc of head,  Work a sc in 2nd sc of head, Work 2 sc in 1st sc of head.

Turn

Work sc decrease through 2 sc,  Sc in next sc, Work sc decrease through next 2 sc.

Cut and secure thread.

 

Place ladybug top and bottom with right sides together (facing in) With main color

“tail” sew top to bottom around the body with whip stitch. Cut and secure thread.

 Turn ladybug right side out.   Stuff with cotton ball.

 With black or complimentary color “tail” Sew around head. Cut and secure thread.

 

A good way to secure the threads is to insert them deep into the stuffed ladybug body. This hides and secures the ends.  Position cotton stuffing as desired.

 Gently cup your ladybug in your hand. Focus the intent and the emotions of your desires through your head (crown energy link to Higher Self), your heart (energy link to the soul)  and your hands to the ladybug.  State these or similar words;

            “Ladybug, Ladybug, fly on High through the Sky,

              Bring back my desires in the blink of an eye.”