Tag: Crochet I -Cord

Crochet Beaded I – Cord Garland

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icordsupplies

Crochet Beaded I – Cord Chain Garland

For many of us, the thought of chain garland conjures up memories of the elementary school crafting “right of passage” comprised of endless strips of construction paper and globs of thick school glue.   Now, we can “adult” our childhood crafting classic into a versatile and durable decoration that doesn’t leave us with sticky glued fingers.

This “pat – torial “(combined pattern and tutorial) will take you through the creation of and the beading of crochet I – cord to create any size and style chain of your choosing. 

SUPPLIES

4 Ply worsted weight yarn in any combination of your choosing.

2 same size crochet hooks (5mm or “H” hook was used to create the cording pictured)  **Note that you will want 2 straight shank (thumb rest is okay) hooks as you will be using them much like knitters use dpns (double pointed needles) when they create I – Cord.**

Beads of your choosing (6 and 8mm were used in the cording pictured)

Small piece of wire (thin or 24 gauge) or dental floss, or threaded needle to place the beads on the yarn.  **Note that this is a bead as you go project**

Other supplies include scissors, ruler or tape measure and large eye tapestry needle to whip stitch ends together.

STITCHES USED

Ch – chain

Whip stitch

Slip Stitch

Working yarn is the yarn attached to the ball / skein

 Pattern

Some I – Cords will use an odd number of stitches to encourage the roll that occurs with the stitching. In this pattern, we will be working with 5 stitches.  DO NOT turn the work.

Ch 5,

Step 1, Draw up a loop in each chain until you have 5 loops on your hook

Icordmoveloopsdown

Step 2, Now slide these 5 loops over the thumb rest and to the “non – hook” side of the hook

Icordlooptranscomplete

Step 3, Insert your 2nd hook into the 1st loop on the 1st hook, *Transfer the loop to the 2nd hook and work a chain stitch* Repeat from * to * until all 5 loops are transferred to the 2nd hook

Steps 2 and 3 equal a row of I-Cord. Repeat these steps until you have approximately 7 inches of I – Cord (there are 27 rows for the example) 

 

The rows will begin to curve to create the cord as you work.  You do not have to use the 2nd hook as some people will place the “live loops” on a cable needle, waste yarn or just hold them in the non hook hand and work the chains.  All processes lead to the same results.

When you get to the desired length, bind off by inserting hook into first stitch, y.o with working yarn and slip stitch through the first stitch, Insert hook into the 2nd stitch and slip stitch through the previous stitch. Repeat across through last stitch, Leaving a long tail for sewing, cut and secure yarn.

Fold in half and whip stitch ends together. 

Create 2nd chain. Interlace chain through the previous chain and whip stitch ends together. Repeat until the garland is a desired length. 

 

ADDING BEADS

This is written as a “bead as you go” project. Beading as you go can be a bit fiddly, but the results and the variety (as you can add beads that are much smaller than your yarn) are well worth (in my opinion) the extra fiddle.

 You can pre – string and stitch the beads with each chain – BUT – this method places the bead on one leg of the chain and will encourage the bead to drop to the side of the fabric that is facing away from you. This is the side of the crochet fabric that will naturally turn under as you work the I-Cord, so you will be inadvertently beading the inside of your cord. Yes, you can reposition the beads which can be just as fiddly as “bead as you go”. (and the beads may not stay repositioned.)

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 of the   I – Cord.  Work step 3 until you get to your designated stitch for beading.

Place your wire (dental floss, thread and needle) through the loop of your designated stitch

Icordbeadloop1

                          

Add a bead to your wire and slide the bead on to the stitch. (this encases both legs of the stitch, so you don’t have to be concerned with front side, back side, etc)

Icordbeadloop2

Work your chain stitch

icordbeadloop3

 

 

Work the remaining I – Cord as previously designated. 

icordbeadloop4

 

Karen Glasgow Follett Designs 2016

Here is an additional note: The last I – Cord pattern that I published was the  I – Cord Curtain tie backs.  I had one person “comment” that why would you crochet something that you could knit? (this person wasn’t so nice with the comment)  And yes, you can knit I – Cord and make the same garland.  I wrote the pattern with 3 things in mind;

  • Sometimes crocheters just gotta crochet
  • Sometimes knitters just gotta knit
  • And Sometimes Snarks just gotta get snarky.

Enjoy creating your garland however you choose to do it!

Creatively Yours,

Karen   Icordchain1

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Crochet I – Cord Curtain Tie Backs Tiebacks

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tieback1 tieback2

Materials Needed

4 ply WW Yarn of choice (you will be working with 2 strand together)

“J / 10” crochet hook 6.00 MM

Tapestry or other large eye needle to weave in ends

Double point knitting needle or other stitch holder (optional)

Tape measure (optional)

 

Stitches Used

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (slp st)

 

I – cord basics

To create crochet I- Cord

Make a foundation chain or foundation row of stitches,

Insert hook into the chain or stitch next to the hook, pull up a loop

Leave loop on hook

Repeat this process across the foundation. Number of loops on the hook should equal the number of foundation chains or stitches (ie: foundation of 3 chains or stitches = 3 loops on the hook)

Do not turn (the “right” side of the work is always facing you. As you work the I-cord, you will see that the work curves to the back to create the cord effect)

Working from left to right, carefully remove the loops and place on a double point knitting needle, stitch holder, ect, until 1 loop is left on the hook.

Work a chain with that loop

Leaving that loop on the hook and working from right to left, work a chain in the next loop

Leave that loop on hook

Repeat this process until all loops have been worked as chains. This constitutes 1 row / round of I-cord. You should end each row / round with a consistent number of loops on your hook (ie: if you started with 3 loops – you should end with 3 loops)

 

I – cord has an inherent elasticity. Many tiebacks are 25 inches long. You may want to shorten the length of your I – Cord to accommodate this elasticity. (The tiebacks in the picture are 22 inches)

 

Pattern;

With 2 strands of yarn worked together, chain 8

Join to beginning chain with a slp st to form a ring

Work a slp st into each of the next 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Work a slp stitch into the 6th chain, insert hook into the next chain and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook) Insert hook into the next chain and pull of a loop (3 loops on hook)

(this creates the I-Cord foundation of 3 loops)

*Do Not turn your work. You have 3 loops (left, middle and right loop) on your hook

Carefully remove the left and the middle loop (to stitch holder)

Chain stitch the right loop,

Leaving the loop on your hook, insert hook into the middle loop and work a chain stitch,

Leaving the 2 loops on your hook, insert hook into the left loop and work a chain stitch,

You should have 3 loops on your hook*

Repeat from * to * until you have your desired length.

Bind off with yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through 2 loops until you have 1 loop on your hook (3 stitches)

Chain 5 and join to 1st stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Turn, Work a slp st into each of the 5 chains

(this creates the hanging loop)

Join to the 3rd stitch of the bind off with a slp st.

Cut and weave in ends.

 

Karen Glasgow Follett 2014